Naomi Goodsir – Australian artist, milliner and together with Renaud Coutaudier, creator of Naomi Goodsir Parfums took her time to unveil the latest fragrance, Nuit de Bakélite. The scent composed by magnificent perfumer Isabelle Doyen , best known from her work for Annick Goutal and Les Nez was announced few years ago and many of us wondered about future of the project. Patience is gold though and perfection needs proper moment – so finally, Nuit de Bakélite was previewed in Spring 2017 in Milano (Persefume was there to learn about the creative process behind the perfume). It took few more months to launch the final version – and now we are revisiting our impressions in the “He says, she says” review by Jakub and Aleksandra.

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The name of scent apparently refers to bakelite – one of the first plastics, often used in jewelry and other objects, so cherished by Naomi Goodsir. It was big challenge to find olfactory interpretation of this material – during interview for Nose, Isabelle Doyen shared her main inspiration:

Nuit de Bakélite evokes to me, a tuberose sap, peeled tuberose, tuberose in a cage made of green and leather, a focus on the small peduncle that connects the flower to the stem, the sound of plastic when several stalks of tuberose tangle, the wild majesty of the Persian tuberose.

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How does it smell to us?

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Notes: Galbanum, angelica, violet leaf, orris, karo karounde, tuberose, leather, davana, styrax, tobacco, labdanum, gaiac wood.

Jakub – Imaginary tuberose. Ethereal, quite introvertic and truly original (and we know that Isabelle Doyen can deliver – oh, how much I miss her Eau de Fier!). It opens really green and herbal, slowly moving to cold tuberose and prominent leathery/tobacco base. There are also detectable accords of galbanum, rooty iris and wet violet leaf, only to prove complexity of the scent. Nuit de Bakélite vibrates and glows on the skin, always showing new nuances and undertones. I am mesmerized – it was worth the wait!

Aleksandra – A very strange perfume, too quirky and odd to call it wonderful, transcendent seems a better word. It smells of leather, green leather, leather thrashed by green stems and leafs of severe, wild herbs. It also smells of gum and lime. I was afraid of styrax playing a key note here, but no, no annoying styrax, thankfully. Over time it somehow manages to get wearable, still having this refreshing, juvenile vibe of a scent experiment. Chapeau bas!

Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite is available as Eau de Parfum 50ml from authorized brand’s stockists.

Pictures and quotes – Naomi Goodsir Parfums, opinions our own.