After the two successful Fath’s Essentials quartets, Jacques Fath Paris will unveil the third chapter of the collection inspired by the history of this famous Parisian couturier. New perfumes are the result of collaboration between Creative Director Rania Naim and two Master Perfumers: Cécile Zarokian (author of the first Fath’s Essentials series) and Luca Maffei who also worked on the second chapter of the line. In the third part, both noses signed two compositions each.

Fath’s Essentials vol.3 – a variation of warm colors revealing four enveloping scents

VELOURS BOISE – by Luca Maffei

Velours Boisé (wooden velvet in English) evokes a warm and heavy fabric used in fashion for its unique, sensual touch. Jacques Fath frequently used velvet for evening gowns. Velvet and wood also evoke the coming winter with the comfortable scent of fireplaces with its cozy atmosphere.

The Winter Holidays with my family house up to the mountain, drinking whisky and chatting with friends. The idea to transfer a velvet sensation using sandalwood – the most warm and enveloping of all woods with a milky character – together with a whisky accord for a cozy feeling… A creation like a soft embrace. Luca Maffei.

A Woody Amber Whisky fragrance. A voluptuous Sandalwood, roused by Spices and Bergamot, before delicately melting into a blend of Whisky, Everlasting flower and Guaiac wood.

Top: Bergamot, Davana, Mate, Spices
Heart: Everlasting flower, Whisky CO² , Carrot seeds, Patchouli
Base: New Caledonia Sandalwood, Armenian Woods, Gauaic Wood, Ambroxan

TEMPETE D’AUTOMNE – by Cécile Zarokian

Tempête d’Automne is the name given by Jacques Fath to the very short haircut he proposed to his favorite and famous model Bettina.

When returning from a trip to the USA, Jacques Fath decides that Bettina must wear a very short haircut, even shorter than the boyish cut, leaving only one centimeter of hair, to make her so “divine”. Beside, Bettina’ style was naturalness, freshness, allure, elegance, joyfulness. So, I wanted the perfume to represents all these elements and that it also plays on her androgynous image through a strong, dominant Woody, with sandalwood, a character wood however allowing soft and Milky shades. Cécile Zarokian

Top: Bergamot, Orange, Mandarin, Pink pepper
Heart: Cinnamon, Coriander, Ylang, white Flowers, Lavender
Base: Sandalwood, Tonka bean absolute, Milky notes, Musks, Leathery notes

RED SHOES by Cecile Zarokian

“Red Shoes” (All she wants to do is dance) is the name of 1948 ballet movie – praised by filmmakers Brian de Palma and Martin Scorcese – for which Jacques Fath designed the fabulous costumes of prima ballerina, Moira Schearer.
Later in 1950, Fath designed for the Fall Collection, a sumptuous red silky dress with the same name, worn by model Bettina, photographed by Irving Penn for Vogue US edition.

For Red Shoes I was inspired by the famous Jacques Fath’s evening dress. It dramatically focus on the bustier of the red flaw dress with a royal Blue stole. With this dress highlighting the curves of Bettina, underlined by the bustier. I wanted this fragrance to illustrate this intense femininity and sensuality, the satin and silky feeling. A fragrance matching with the image of this evening dress, elegant, opulent, so chic. Cécile Zarokian

A seductive, intense Floral Woody fragrance. “The royal blue color reminds me of something metallic and deep, Aldehyde and wispy, with a touch of Ginger that contrasts with the color of the Burgundy-Red bottle thus evoking a flaming Rose, a masterful Patchouli which project a strong wake.” Cécile Zarokian

Top: Blackcurrant, red Berries, Grapefruit, Aldehydes
Heart: Rose Damascena absolute, Geranium, Ginger, Pink Pepper
Base: Patchouli, Cashmere wood, Musks

LE LODEN by Luca Maffei

“Jacques Fath liked to wear eccentric accessories or clothes he would buy from his travels, contrasting with the rest of his classic wardrobe. (…) among others (…) a classic Loden coat he wore as a trench, which he had brought back from Austria”.* He also used this particular, warm and strong woolen fabric to convert into feminine dresses the classic Loden jacket.
*Extract from the book Jacques Fath by Valérie Guillaume, Paris Musées Editions.

The memory of my grandfather wearing his loden, both pricky and protective. I have recreated this contrast thanks to spices, in particular fresh ginger, which has a citrus touch able to sublimate the intensity of vetiver. Luca Maffei

A deep and fresh Woody Woody Vetiver fragrance. An tribe to Vetiver. A surprising and vibrant ginger fresh playing with Juniper berries, beating to the rhythm of Java Vetiver, Raspberry leaf absolute. To finally succumb to the deep embrace of Patchouli.

Top: Green Mandarin, Haiti Vetiver, fresh Ginger, Pink Pepper CO²
Heart: Bourbon Geranium, Bourbon Vetiver, Raspberry leaf absolute, Juniper berries
Base: Ylang-ylang extra, Java Vetiver, Tobacco, Patchouli

Fath’s Essentials vol.3 will be available as Eaux de Parfum 100 ml, 134 € and 50 ml, 93€ from October 2018. The line will debut during the upcoming TFWA show in Cannes.

Photo and quotes – Jacques Fath press release