Recently, Filippo Sorcinelli – artist, musician, ecclesiastic tailor at LAVS and most of all Creative Director of the sensational UNUM Parfum (we have reviewed brand’s first three scents here and announced new bottles plus the two latest editions in this post) has introduced trio of his first scents under SAUF label, until now known from production of unique jewellery. After Pitti Fragranze 14‘s meeting Persefume presents the concept of SAUF, along with our signature “He says, she says” reviews.
Filippo Sorcinelli, photo by Yuri Kolesnikow
Extraits de Parfum by SAUF, UNUM’s younger sister are tribute to the organ and musiciality of the perfume. Filippo Sorcinelli became fascinated by Notre Dame Cathedral’s Grande Orgue and together with the mysterious nose created three variations on the same mythical and sacral material: the incense.
From the sensual and wrinkled juices, angry, whose names refer to the organ registers. Nothing already heard, only compositions with a strong (very strong) personality. The bottle, of a religious White takes the form of a drawbar of the organ stop with his knob, faithful reproduction of the knobs of the stops of the “Grand Orgue” of the Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris. As concerning the names of the perfumes, they too have been inspired by the stops of the Great Organ.
SAUF fragrances (Plein-Jeu III-IV, Contre Bombarde 32 and Voix Humane 8) highly depart from the dark, mysterious incense of UNUM LAVS offering different takes on the theme with woody, oriental, flowery and gourmand accords. The whole brand concept shows that we can expect much more than trio of scents in the near future.
Filippo Sorcinelli, photo by Yuri Kolesnikow
The incense in all it forms. Treated and abused, interpreted, pushed, reinvented, betrayed. SAUF is nothing less than a return to the perfume source and humanity.
Filippo Sorcinelli, photo by Rita Francia
Let us focus now on our short impressions of all three SAUF scents:
Plein jeu III-V
Plein Jeux III–V: A contemporary incense, light, with a beautiful “cologne” effect, thrilled of spices (GINGER and BLACK PEPPER) and rejuvenated from citrus fruits (LEMON), which provides, in one time, its fresh scent, camphorated and peppery to illuminate the heart of JASMIN. An elegant composition, never arrogant.
Head notes: lemon, ginger, mimosa, pepper
Heart notes: amber, incense, jasmine
Base notes: cedar, fir balsam, moss, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver
He – Jakub: Light, woody and very energizing thanks to ginger and pepper. The incense is green, than warmed-up by woods and smoke. Inspiring.
She – Aleksandra: SAUF scents are nice, however with moderate projection and longevity. Plein Jeu III-V is bit in the CdG Zagorsk type. Yet, it quickly gets sticky, almost caramel-like.
Contre Bombarde 32
Head notes: elemi, juniper, bitter orange
Heart notes: cedar, sandalwood
Base notes: amber, caramel, vanilla
Vibrant and magnetic, an “oriental” incense of vanilla and amber, which suddenly becomes warmer, almost edible. Final resource: its sweet melody lingers long in the head as a musical wind which settles itself and you won’t forget. It is sensual, carnal and very insistent on the skin.
He – Jakub: Oh, what a bliss. Oriental and gourmand incense – the type of composition you can not get everywhere. The incense is smoky, woody and spicy at the same time and sweet accords of hot milk and caramel give you comfort and touch of sensuality. I love it – I knew I had to have it and I do! My absolute favourite.
She – Aleksandra: An Avignon-type incense, similarly cold at first, then it becomes much sweeter and warmer. Pine and juniper needles fried in fructose syrup, it is almost edible, and definitely smells yummy.
Voix Humane 8
Head notes: bergamot, cardamom, elemi
Heart notes: ambrette, orange blossom, jasmine
Base notes: amber, leather, incense, moss, musk, vanilla
Mystical-chic, as touched by grace, this fragrance that suddenly plunges in severe, reminds, to all of those who might have forgotten, that the incense is the most ancient of mankind perfume. An incantatory juice, almost meditative, from the wake (MOUSSE, AMBER) intriguing as its name.
He – Jakub: Pretty unique and out of this world, almost angelic. There are not many compositions which combine both white flowers and incense. Very refined, again warming-up with time thanks to gourmand notes.
She – Aleksandra: This one is green and austere, still somehow maintains vulnerability. Its light, flowery heart floats on incense clouds almost invisibly. My favourite.
SAUF fragrances are available as Extraits de Parfum 50ml (price is quite affordable: 95 EUR), at the moment they are available from Nose in Paris and soon will reach other authorized stockists.
Quotes and pictures via SAUF – many thanks to Filippo Sorcinelli, Yuri and the rest of UNUM/SAUF Team, mostly Rossella Caputo – for her charm, class and personalized SAUF’s Tour during Pitti Fragranze 14!