Do I miss violet? Not really to be frank. It’s a demanding note to me, often suffocating, overwhelming and generally bigger than life. I think it’s really hard to find balance between tenderness of little, mystical flowers and the tendency to make candies of them – the concept I understand but do not buy. That’s why I appreciate the great Insolence EdP by Maurice Roucel – how was that possible to make such a big violet statement without declaring war with the whole world? Something is lurking beneath the surface of Insolence, something dark and sensual, playing with shadows cast by the huge violets from Jupiter. As you can see I already have my favourite violet scent. I Miss Violet is a completely different story, but the story needed.

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Perhaps the key to create an interesting violet perfume is to make it not too violet-y. This is what Duchaufour does here in I miss Violet, though the beginnings are confusing – all I see is a carpet of flowers, rather green than violet, topped with sugar powder, but it changes soon. I can smell iris, a typical ingredient enhancing the coolness of violets, the shady, elegant quality. But what is interesting is the addition and sudden growth of a vegetal note, the one I call “vegetal blood” – a thin, quick liquid, little slippery in touch, reminiscent of all things sensual. You can feel it on your hands when you pick flowers violently. The scent is one of a kind: fresh, ripe, a little painful, which makes it even more carnal. Paired with the touch of softest leather it creates an elegant combo, somewhat pale and restraint, but right in doing so. There is something in this leathery aspect that reminds me of Bottega Veneta – the airy quality, lightness on skin.

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It’s the first fragrance by TDC that has a face. The concept does not really convince me, I feel I’ve seen it too many times before. One more thing: I am not an expert on this subject, but something went wrong with the eye make up.

Longevity is moderate, about 6 hours. Good saturation and moderate trail.

Notes: violet leaf, basil, mandarin orange, ambrette, champaca, nutmeg; osmanthus, violet, iris, cyclamen, mimosa; leather, mahogany, vanilla, musk, ambergris.
Launched: 2015;
Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour.