Today on Persefume: Œillères – truly special project by renowned and talented photographer Roberto Greco (you have surely seen his amazing shots for Kilian, Perris Monte Carlo, Jul et Mad, Aether, Liquides Imaginaires, Le Monarque Paris, or Room 1015 to name the few).

Roberto Greco

Oeilleres is the name of both art exhibition and the Objet Perfumant – the result of collaboration with French perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato (nose behind Parfum d’Empire brand and La Parfumerie Moderne creations).

A horticulturist by trade, I went on to study visual communication and photography in Switzerland.
After my first series «After still life » in 2011, the baroque still lives I composed with dead animals – from rats to parakeets, aquarium fish or flies – I realized that something was missing from the picture. That’s when I decided to add smells to my work. With my second series «Morbidezza » produced in 2014 – a kind of animal herbarium set against simple color backgrounds – I began my olfactory journey by diffusing smells in the air during exhibitions. I brought blends of fragrances, essential oils and scented candles to galleries, but also buckets full of manure, to immerse the spectator into an experience combining sight and smell. With my latest series «Œillères », created in 2017, I was finally able to achieve my vision by calling on a “nose” to translate a photographic story into scent. Œillères – L’Objet Parfumant was born of my meeting with Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, the founder and « nose » of Parfum d’Empire. As a doctor of chemistry specialized in perfume plants, he has focused on different modes of extraction. His artistic approach often pushes back the boundaries of current perfumery, in intense compositions blending the carnal and the vegetal. It felt natural for me to reach out to him for my project. Roberto Greco

With the Œillères series, the flowers I shot becomes an allegory of the human condition. Suspending the moment of decay, wherein that volatile yet neglected moment of decline is magnified. At a time when what surrounds me appears, smooth and lean the bodies depicted echo the flora. With shrouded faces, focus remains on the corporeal, the flesh. Œillères is a series comprised of thirty one images, and a bespoke scent, L’Objet Parfumant, accompanies the photographic series. It was created under my artistic direction by Parisian nose Marc-Antoine Corticchiato after two years of hard work, the amount of time required to achieve the desired effect: an anti-flower fragrance.

Let’s focus now directly on Œillères Objet Perfumant:

L’Objet Parfumant is a limited edition of five hundred pieces created under my artistic direction by French « nose » Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, and is based on a half-green, half-animalic anti-flower. « Anti-flower » because I want to echo the flowers I photograph without referring to any one in particular. Therefore, along with Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, we decided to exclude rose, jasmine and all the overly tangible flowers. We managed to express the general idea of floralcy through the dried flower, pollen and honey facets of chamomile and broom. To connect the scent with the figures I photograph, I also wanted to convey the feel of flesh. In order to achieve this, we brought out the animal aspects of vegetal notes, as well as various spices and resins. Though it wasn’t an end in itself, the fragrance is bursting with natural ingredients – sometimes in very high doses –, all the better to express the organic duality of my images. Between the delicacy of a fading petal and the radicality of a fold of skin.

1st cycle: A dark green slap encapsulating time and slicing through the air. (eucalyptus, thyme, lavender)
2nd cycle: The scent warms up and evokes nature with facets of dried f lowers, straw and pollen. (chamomile absolute, broom, hay absolute )
3rd cycle: Mineral notes of chalk and cold wall rise up, along with a candle wax effect. (olibanum, heliotrope, styrax, mushroom accord)
4th cycle: The accord ends with suede facets, and some animalic notes seems to blossom. (cumin, castoreum, animalic musks)

Our impressions:

Jakub – The perfume not from this place and era. Herbal, meadowy aspect, the smell of dormant vegetation. It feels retro, sometimes even bit soapy. Objet Parfumant is the real piece of art, do not be afraid to try – you will be surprised by its classic, timeless (or out of time?) character. You can really smell absolute creative freedom here – without following any trends and regulations.

Aleksandra – what a nice, little gem we have here. It opens with burst of herbs, all natural and bitter, very grounded – in a way you can feel earth speaking through the leaves. The accord is sober, severe, rough and very clean. Its quality makes it almost artificial. Then the flowery facet slips into the composition, making it crispier and more aloof, as flowers are light creatures. The pollen flying over the fields, free and unbound. There’s space in it, but it still remains dense with fragrance, necessary. You can predict what comes next – the bees produce wax, and more stable, solid part of the composition comes along with it, cool and almost dusty, like dry remains of some quarry. I don’t feel any oriental, spicy notes in it, I don’t detect incense either – perhaps because animal tones are very prominent on my skin, changing this perfume experiment into a really interesting, sensual creature that is much more elegant and older than they say – in a good sense, as this perfume reminds me of the greatest classics that you cannot really sniff on anyone these days.

Œillères Objet Perfumant – the classic edition

Œillères Objet Perfumant can be obtained as 50ml (175 EUR) from the dedicated website: Objet Perfumant and Jovoy Paris (link here) where also the exclusive, signed Art Edition coffret (750 EUR) is being sold (see the picture below). Moreover, Au Parfum e-shop is offering both 50ml product and 2ml spray samples (5 EUR)

Œillères Objet Perfumant – limited Art Edition of 19 pieces

Photos, quotes and sample – Roberto Greco, all rights reserved. Opinions – our own.