Last year Persefume reviewed five Diamond Collection scents from Orlov Paris – the French fragrance house founded by Ruth and Thomas Méaulle, couple fascinated by the world of diamonds. This year brand introduced two new creations from this exclusive line: Golden Prince and Blue Lili. We are reviewing them in the Jakub and Aleksandra‘s signature “He says, she says” way.

orlov duo
Ruth Méaulle with her husband,Thomas Méaulle

All previous Orlov‘s fragrances have been composed by the iconic Dominique Ropion, but for the new duo the brand has chosen perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur of Robertet (creations for By Kilian, Jul et Mad, Frapin, Gustave Eiffel among others).

orlov new
Orlov Paris Golden Prince and Blue Lili

Following a collection created with nose Dominique Ropion (IFF), Ruth Méaulle continues the story of Orlov Paris, turning this time to perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur (Robertet) to compose two new fragrances. Known for her of natural raw materials, her direct style and her dynamic elegance, the young French perfumer created Golden Prince and Blue Lili.

How do they smell?

golden prince

Golden Prince is an addictive cocktail and a nod tothe drink in vogue among New York’s Golden Boys. It sees a metallic accord of grapefruit and pink peppercorn shaken over a potent base of cashmere, vetiver, and patchouli. The name references a brown diamond first exhibited in 1937 at the Paris World Fair, and then at the American Museum of Natural History.

Jakub – Two new Orlov Paris creations definitely differ in style from the previous line-up. Yet, one thing remained unchanged: they still smell bold, elegant and refined. Orlov is not too widely known brand, with very limited availability. Some of my friends love their offerings, few called it pretentious, but I do not agree with that: if you are looking for classic fragrances with luxurious statement, this house might be for you (not to mention that Founders are so great in the real life)! But what does matter is perfume and Golden Prince is example of perfectly balanced, quite masculine composition full of woods and spices, great for big events and evenings out. Perhaps not that dense as Orlov’s Star of The Season (which I happily own) and Flame of Gold, but totally enjoyable!

Aleksandra – The name stays true to the juice. Wearing it I feel like a privileged white male from the upper ladder of society – which is comfortable. The important thing here is that this scented persona seems to be aware of his privilege, which makes it (or rather him, accordingly) open to share his abundance, and somehow very free. There’s space in this perfume, and a lot of it. The composition is rather on the masculine side – full of fresh juniper and conifer breath – yet it’s so welcoming and open-minded, that it does not seem to worry about such things as gender. A free spirit that wanders wherever he wants, that’s what Golden Prince is. Unexpected and therefore even more pleasant surprise from Orlov.

orlov blue

Blue Lili, its female alter ego, tells of irrepressible and flamboyant sensuality free from all complex. A thorny liaison between a rose in bud and velvety blackcurrant leads to green seventies-style facets and a lingering note of leather. A reflection of character, like the eponymous blue gemstone and a tribute to the charismatic wife of famous diamond dealer William Goldberg.

Jakub – Fragile, so realistic beauty. If scent had a colour, Blue Lili would be indeed sky-blue. Starting with gentle flowers leaving quite cold and distant effect on my skin, it quickly blooms and warms up in time with leathery/green undertones. Gentle, refined aura matching visions of Parisian chic.

Aleksandra – This is such a vigorous and joyful scent! A green, fresh rose, juicy and dewy, not cold at all! The flower can be easily recognised, but it’s abstract enough to see it evolve into something almost edible – rather like a chewing gum: you can taste it for hours but you never swallow it, it’s not here to feed you, but to make you busy. As time passes, the rose merges with leather to create a smooth, silky and luxurious fabric of scent, laying perfectly like a custom-taylored dress. Once again Sidonie Lancesseur is showing her exceptional talent to create perfumes as vivid as living creatures. Not a hint of artificiality in both these newest perfumes by Orlov, great ingredients, great work.

Both new Orlov Paris scents are available as Eaux de parfum, £200for 75 ml from Harrods London, and authorized stockists worldwide including Perfume by Calé and Neos 1911.

Quotes, samples and pictures – Orlov Paris, opinions – our own.