At the recent Pitti Fragranze 14, Spyros Drosopoulos – Amsterdam-based perfumer and founder of his Baruti brand presented the latest Baruti’s creation: Dama Koupa.
Dama Koupa (in Greek: “Thee Queen of Hearts”) is truly complex and intense Extrait de Parfum built around iris, osmanthus and gourmand elements. Persefume presents exclusive interview with the nose on perfume’s creative process plus our signature “He says, she says” review.

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Notes of Dama Koupa: Macaroons, Iris, Osmanthus, Musk, Amber, White Woods, Beeswax, Fir Balsam Absolute

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Spyros Drosopoulos – Perfumer and Founder of Baruti, photo by Susanne Middelberg

Inspiration for Dama Koupa evolved out of Baruti Indigo (just like in case of Berlin im Winter). My idea was to make a more powdery, voluptuous, for nighttime wear version. Something really seductive but not in a vulgar way, so basically without screaming for attention (just like “classic” beauty you just can’t help notice it, even if it’s not trying to catch your attention).
As the trials evolved it became much more a perfume in it’s own right (just like Berlin im Winter) and bared practically no resemblance anymore to the original Indigo. I have kept the mastic note but the rose was substituted with Iris (rhizome) and there is no incense. The orris is both from a super quality orris butter and also my own accord which mimics the butter. As a perfumer I pride myself with my ability to really make photo realistic reconstructions of flowers. It’s definitely the most difficult part of being a (self taught) perfumer as you can’t cheat, it’s either like the real thing or it is not! I added bitter almond EO to pair it with and some white cognac oil which together with the vanilla and tonka in the base give what I call a “macaroon” effect.
Additionally there is a bit of osmanthus (absolute only, I have a copied that one too but I deliberately only used the real thing) to keep things youthful and fresh and the drydown which is made up of some animalic musks, ambergris, resins, woods and so on. The name came pretty late actually, I wanted to have something in the name to indicate the “royalness” but not too obvious and then I thought of the playing cards, as koupa (the hearts in greek) comes from cupido the name fit perfectly and so everything came together! Spyros Drosopoulos of Baruti for Persefume

Our thoughts on Dama Koupa fragrance?

He – Jakub: Despite few meetings with always friendly and helpful Spyros at several fragrance fairs, I have never deeply tested any Baruti’s creation. The Spring launch of quite impressive Tindrer made me curious about Dama Koupa – and I can say it lives up to its promises! It is very bold, intense scent with amazing, not too earthy iris perfectly combined with sweet osmanthus and non-banal gourmand/boozy accords. Hint of smokiness adds so needed balance and prevents it from being too sticky. All together, it is indeed both sensual and elegant work, very long lasting and quite linear. Perfect for the night out! I impressed and it makes me wanna try previous brand’s Extraits as well.

She – Aleksandra: Wonderful, sweet iris mixed with carrot is a heady beginning of this surprising perfume, and then it gets even more interesting, with iris turning metallic, buttery and simultaneously blunt, as if a handful of sand was thrown in there. Beeswax makes this concoction fascinatingly eerie, fir ads a cool whiff which makes this perfume oscillate between hot and cold. And still it is easy to wear! What a treasure, I like it a lot.

As in case of other compositions, Baruti Dama Koupa is available as Extrait de Parfum 30 ml, 98 EUR. For stockits please visit Baruti homepage.

Pictures and quotes – thank you to Spyros Drosopoulos of Baruti!