Welcome back after another Persefume break! We have been quite busy recently being involved in few, also olfactory projects, but now it is time to rise and shine again, especially with some surprises just around the corner!
Before going back to our classic “He says, she says” series, today we are bringing you news about the latest launch by Italian house UERMI founded by Aurora Carrara and Palmiro Péaquin: UD IKAT.
UD IKAT is oriental, woody and leathery fragrance composed by Pierre Constantin Gueros of Symrise – we have received the generous lab sample and it quickly became one of Jakub’s current obsessions. But first about the fragrance itself:

The word IKAT comes from the Indonesian word that means “to bind”. It’s not a textile but an ancient technique of dyeing special patterns, usually with vibrant colors and fascinating results on different fabrics. Considered one of the oldest forms of textile decoration, its heritage belongs to Asian cultures but has also spread to South America, Africa and Europe, appearing in Italy in the 17th century.
UERMI is fascinated by IKAT uniqueness: precious craftsmanship, strong cross cutting values, feminine and masculine creativity involved and… timeless beauty. IKAT weaving belongs to different cultures of the world. But the silk IKAT from Central Asia, called ‘Abrabandi’, is considered the most striking of all, with binding and dying processes so complex that can transform a material into a jewel. Its rich colours were obtained from all-natural precious resources: the color yellow from saffron, gold from the rind of pomegranates, red from crushed cochineal insects, brown from walnut husk and blue from the indigo plant. The recipes for such dyes were closely held secrets. IKAT has been a form of manual art for centuries, often becoming a highly esteemed icon of status which continues to be taught to young apprentices. Today, IKAT is also re-interpreted by contemporary artists in love with its original beauty.

UERMI has created this new, extraordinary fragrance to celebrates the multifaceted uniqueness of Oud, ‘the Wood of the Gods’, in a very sensuous and contemporary mood. Inspired by a traditional textile that, just like OUD, has been explored, interpreted and shared by many cultures around the world.

The noble depth of majestic Ajmal Oud is highlighted by the spicy freshness of elemi and red berries. Patchouli, vetiver and cypriol unravel a soft and elegant heart, which conveys dark density and texture. Enveloping notes of Sandalwood and Cedarwood wrap Ajmal Oud in a soft veil. The sensual intensity of liquid gold.

Top Notes: Elemi, Bergamot, Red Berry
Heart Notes: Patchouli, Vetiver, Cypriol
Base Notes: Oud Ajmal, Sandalwood, Cedarwood

Natural Essential Oils in the formula: 29,8 %
Cedarwood, Patchouli, Elemi, Vetiver Madagascar, Bergamot, Gurjun Balsam, Amyris, Cypriol, Lemon, Red Berry, Mandarin Madagascar, Cinnamon Bark Madagascar, Oud Ajmal, Sandalwood, Vanilla Bourbon Madagascar, Turkish Rose, Vetiver coeur Madagascar

Pierre Constantin Gueros of Symrise – photo courtesy of UERMI

Some Jakub’s first impressions: UD IKAT is pretty bold and addictive! Been skeptical about another oud-themed creation – so happy to be proven wrong! Dry woodiness, resins, with accurate dose of spices balanced by sour berries and sweetness of rose and vanilla. Very good quality (and real smelling!) oud gives even more depth to the composition without going into fecal/animalic territories. Longevity is amazing – more than 10h on my skin! Loving UD IKAT’s versality – it can be easily worn as office scent, but if you spray more generously at the nighttime – magic happens.. I also applaud the choice of perfumer – Pierre Constantin Gueros is known from many Oriental creations for Fragrance du Bois, Atkinson’s (The Other Side of Oud), or Carolina Herrera (Gold Incense).

More about UERMI this Spring on Persefume – we have tested all current creations and our review is scheduled for one the next “He says, she says” by Jakub and Aleksandra – so many hidden gems there and this house has been neglected by us far too long.
P.S. And if you are fan of Antoine Lie’s UERMI XX Latex – it is now back online for unbeatable price!

Picture, sample and qoutes – UERMI. Opinions – our own.