Persefume is starting coverage of of Pitti Fragranze 13 which took place between 11-13 September 2015 in Florence. Our detailed reports will include impressions from the main and additional events, new launches, short interviews, some unofficial sneak peeks and much more. Come back this and next week to read our next articles!

In the Part 1: novelties from the UNSCENT LAND – installation created by Italian niche distributor and fragrance maker Intertrade Group as the separate part within the Pitti Fragranze.
UNSCENT, project devised and curated by Celso Fadelli, President and Fragrance Curator and Cristiano Seganfreddo, Vice President and Creative Director of Intertrade Group is artistic concept showcasing Intertrade’s brands and combining olfactory experiences with other senses – this time by entering separate room of the venue we reached fragrant lunapark with centrally located carrousel, crystal boules, popcorn and candyfloss machines.

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An experience that is both playful and enthralling, taking visitors back to the excitement and surprise of childhood. A magical encounter with fragrances that transports the olfactory experience into a dreamland. A play on nostalgia and memories set among carousels and rocking-horses, crystal boules, cascades of popcorn, bubbles and candyfloss in perfume colours, experienced through video and text. Panels with super-size tartan jacquard textiles crafted in Italy reveal artistic iconography inspired by brands taking part in UNSCENT, curated by Alessio Avventuroso, Design Director of Intertrade Group. Perfume as the synthesis of dreams. Perfume as dream and emotion. Perfume as our ancestral memory.

For me it was bit surreal, yet interesting visit (or rather few in order to try all novelties). While main hall was always crowded, the UNSCENT LAND area was more calm and serene, with all those carefully recreated lunapark details. However, in combination with quite large space, dark lights and raw walls of Stazione Leopolda, the effect was not that joyful- or perhaps I am just watching too much bit creepy, yet mesmarizing David Lynch’s movies! Luckily, the presence of helpful Intetrade’s team and brand creators transported me back to the reality.

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This season’s UNSCENT LAND gathered such perfume brands as A Lab On Fire, Agonist, Azagury, Boadicea the Victorious, Blood Concept, Czech&Speake, Diane Pernet, L – Automobili Lamborghini, Préparation Parfumée Andrée Putman, Re Profumo, Roads, S-Perfume, Santa Eulalia, soOud, TFK-The Fragrance Kitchen and La Manufacture. Additonally, candle company The Hype Noses plus cosmetics labels as Annemarie Börlind, Couto, Ilâme, Jane Iredale and Verso have been showcased.

Some of the brands’ novelties were already shown at UNSCENT during Esxence 2015 in Milanese AVERY Perfume Gallery. In Florence we again had a chance to get know the A Lab On Fire range – brand which has been recently added to the Intertrade’s portfolio. It includes just European distribution, therefore I haven’t got the chance to smell the recent US limited launch One Night in Rio. Azagury introduced its more travel and budget friendly 50ml flacons, in the opposite to heavy crystal editions. Andrée Putman (including first Préparation Parfumé now baptised L’Original and new creations with my favourite Tan d’Epices), S-Perfume, Diane Pernet Paris, or La Manfacture were also present (including the latest La Manufacture’s Cologne Impatiente, but I don’t think I have seen upcoming autumn launch Cologne Cashmere which will be warm mix of citrus, guaiac wood, amber, wetiver and chestnuts.). The Fragrance Kitchen line is truly large, but having few favourites from this range.

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Complete new launches of PITTI 2015’s UNSCENT LAND include:

Return of BLOOD CONCEPT– after preview in Milano, the brand came with more mature and less edgy, but still chic image, all new perfumes and updated packaging.

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Example of new Blood Concept packaging

Ten fragrances have been divided into three series: RED, BLACK and UPSIDE DOWN. We will present them soon in the separate news article including short interview with brand creators (pictured). I feel that scents are now bit less extravagant, yet still attractive. And unfortunately, unique +MA and RED+MA concepts had to go for good…

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Giovanni Castelli and Atonio Zuddas, founders of Blood Concept

Swedish perfume house AGONIST founded by the creative couple Christine and Niclas Lydeen introduced its new scent: Blue North which actually I really liked. It is supposed to evoke mystery and beauty of the cold Northern season and indeed smells like Scandinavian breeze. Similar approach was taken in the Mendittorosa Odori d’Anima North, but here the effect is more fresh and frosted. Look for our signature “He says, she says” take on full Agonist range in the near future.

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Notes: Cardamom, Rosemary Pure, Speramint. Note di Cuore: Orris, Mint, Ginger Roots, Heliotrope. Note di Fondo: White Cedar, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Musk.

Niclas Lydeen told me that in case of Blue North, the crystal sculpture bottle (by renowned Kosta Boda glass factory) will not be introduced. Instead, it will come with special accessory (pictured hanging in the background):

Agonist Blue North comes with a limited edition wool plaid blanket. A tactile extension of the sensation of the fragrance. Something to embrace you under the icy blue skies…Niclas Lydeen for Persefume

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Niclas Lydeen, Agonist co-founder

After the success of gorgeous and spicy limited L1 fragrance which I already own, L-Automobili Lamborghini brought it back, together with three new additions: L2, L3 and L4. They seemed to be more energetic and sporty, perhaps bit less challenging. Curious to test them in details – in the meantime, check my news article on this quartet here.

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L-Automobili Lamborghini range

Danielle Ryan‘s lifestyle brand ROADS expanded its portfolio with interesting additions: AFRICA line and candles. ROADS AFRICA is the collection of four fragrances created with African-inspired ingredients and featuring artwork of four African artists. Very solid line, one of the best of ROADS’s offerings.

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ROADS AFRICA line comprises of:

I AM DANCE

I am Dance s based on the freedom of African Dance. The Pantsula dance is a form of expression associated with hip-hop culture, its fast off-beat rhythm symbolizes a raw strength that is reflected in the powerful notes of this fragrance. Top notes of zesty lemon, mandarin and hazy marine accord are mixed with fresh apple, pineapple and aromatic lavandin. Finally warm base notes of Amber, cedar wood and the deepness of patchouli are blended beautifully to create a colorful and complex fragrance. Featured artist: LYNNIE ZULU, is an artist and illustrator with roots in Tanzania. Now living in East London, her work carries an exotic and energetic influence that is reveled across her bold tribal graphics.

BIG SKY

Big Sky epresents the vast African skies that frame the ever-changing landscapes beneath, a moveable muse that artists, film-makes and photographers have all tried to capture. With natural top notes of citrus, lemon and orange flower, flirting with exotic geranium, patchouli, papyrus and oud, whilst the sensual base notes of Amber, sandalwood, cashmeran, myrrh and Vanilla conclude the intoxicating journey. Featured artist: DYLAN CULHANE, is a Cape Town based photographic artist working with photography collage his work embraces the intense use of colour and geometric shapes.

PAST | PRESENCE

Modern Nigerian literature has received much international acclaim and respect in recent years. Be it political or poetic the dignity and clarity in the words of writers such as Chinua Achebe and Wole Soyinka helped shape the characteristics for this thought-provoking fragrance. Elegant top notes of Bergamot and smoked black tea blend effortlessly with classic Jasmine whilst the softness and warmth of Tonka bean adds the perfect backdrop. Featured artist: YAW TONY, is a talented Ghanaian/Canadian architect, artist and graphic designer based in Toronto. He is known for experimenting with patterns, fabrics and textiles. His designs are a creative collaboration of western culture and ancient African traditions.

AFROPOLIS

Afropolis elebrates the dynamic cultural clash and rise of Africa’s multi-cultural, energetic and diverse cities, here an exciting, exuberant and tenacious fragrance emerges. Topped by the lightness of Gin, Juniper Berries, Fresh citrus and spearmint, reinforced by Blonde woods, Iris, Oak moss and marine and coloured by Ebony wood, vetiver, amber and radiant cashmere musks to create a melodious finale. Featured artist: ELISE HANNEBICQUE, is a young designer based in Paris. Elise takes her inspiration from the shapes and patterns found in traditional African art, and translates this to her instinctive style, blending shapes and colours. Her work includes a series of images inspired by Nelson Mandela.

Additonally, ROADS presented line of five highly perfumed candles using natural waxes. Very strong, refined, truly complex – tried them all and I am impressed with nocturnal Black Door and Hotel Saffron being my favourites.

It was a very different process from creating a fragrance to wear. Instead of appreciating how the perfumes would work on the skin, we had to understand what happens when a scent is captured in wax and how it then diffuses through heat. It was a magical experience and I am so proud that we have produced such authentic, beautifully fragranced candles. Danielle Ryan, ROADS.

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PAPER PINK

Inspired by the elegance of Japanese culture and the beauty of cherry blossom. Where delightful top notes of Lemon, Bergamot, Tea Accord and Rose, mingle with aromatic Cassis, Rosebud, Magnolia and Violet. Charming base notes of the more heady Cedar, Patchouli, Amber and Musks, creatively collide and lightly scent the room with a delightful ambiance.

KEEP KISSING

This is a romantic, heart-stopping moment you wish could last forever. Irresistible Freesia, Osmanthus, Incense and Orange Blossom flirt with Iris, Peony, Tuberose and Jasmine to create fragrant chemistry when blended with possessive Vetiver, Cashmere Woods and Musk. A beautiful composition, that creates a deeply sensual atmosphere.

BLACK DOOR

This is a candle with a deeply dark and sophisticated scent. Where power, strategy, intrigue and ambition battle together with masculine elegance. Honeyed Leather, meets a hint of sweetness in Rose and Coumarin, whilst intense Amber, Woody and Tobacco deliver a possessive personality when burned, this creates a charming environment.

MOON GARDEN

Always changing, always inviting. A night garden you might see in your dreams, ethereal and fragranced by nature. The beautiful simplicity of Clove, Cassis, Apricot, Green Fig and Basil, infused with Rose, Jasmine and Iris and warmed from the base with Woods, Vanilla Musk and Incense, bringing a deliciously natural fragrance to any room in the house.

HOTEL SAFFRON

This imaginary hotel, in the heart of the stunning Indian landscape promises luxury and majesty. Spice and wonder waft in the air, Lemon, Mandarin, Orange, Grapefruit, Saffron and Accord are invigorated with Tea, Ginger Cardamon, Coriander and Jasmine and finally fused with Vetiver and Patchouli lighting up any occasion with an exotic sense of wonder.

Boadicea The Victorious was focused on the global launch of 2013 release Valiant (before Harrods and e-boutique exclusive) which now is widely available in both 50ml and 100ml sizes. The complet new Boadicea’s 2015 addition is regal Amber Sapphire with top notes of bergamot, cassis, cinnamon, rhum; middle notes of rose, Indian jasmine, magnolia, lentisk and base notes comprising of cedarwood, Cashmeran, Cambodian oud, tonka bean and vanilla.

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Boadicea The Victorious 2013 launch Valiant gets more wide distribution

Finally, luxury Barcelona shop Santa Eulalia introduced its fifth fragrance, after Albis, Marinis, Citric and Obscuro. According to the brand, new Vesper is like romantic evening stroll around the town. Sublime and oriental composition – I need to come back to Santa Eulalia line soon.
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Notes: cypress, star anise, and figolide, myrrh, labdanum, coffee, guaiac, sandalwood, cedar wood, benzoin, cistus and vanilla.

UNSCENT LAND was enjoyable experience, though more quiet comparing to previous editions and bit less packed with new launches (which is actually not that bad thing). Skipped candyfloss, been quite impressed by lunapark theme – and I am curious what to expect during Spring 2016 project!
In the next part of Persefume’s Pitti Fragranze report we will come back to the main area to present some most interesting launches.

Pictures and quotes via Intertrade Group. Personal thank you to Giorgia Cantarini of Intertrade Group for guided tour, Roberta Lazzari from Intertrade’s press office and founders of Blood Concept and Agnonist.