Another Pitti Fragranze show is over – as always Persefume visited Florence to check the latest novelties, try some previews and most of all – to meet again perfumers, brand creators and so many new and old friends from other magazines, press and distribution.
In this ultimate Pitti Fragranze post we are presenting Jakub’s best-of list including some interesting brand debuts and juicy sneak peaks. We will also show our signature, the most complete A-Z new launches list and what is the best way to finish our report? Of course the giveaway! Prepare some tea, coffee, organic smoothie, or well-chilled wine and enjoy – that is going to be the long summary!

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Photo by Pitti Fragranze – Jakub is also here!

Some words of introduction – this edition of Pitti Fragranze was dedicated to ethics and sustainability what has been reflected in show’s new updated image and selection of thematic workshops and presentations. As always, there was a space for interesting brands and launches of well-known established houses. I have also spotted few trends:
– florals are going strong – both in terms bold interpreations, or those more abstract and fragile ones. Standouts? Bertrand Duchaufour composed the most beautiful floral scents for two brands: Boronia for Grandiflora and lovely trio for Francesca dell’Oro. We were shown two sensual interpretations of osmanthus in form of previewed SANTI BURGAS Palindrome III and officially launched Rance 1795 Secret Euphorie, not to forget gentle Tuberose in Blue by Altaia;
Grandiflora collection – Photo by Persefume
– I am glad to see that fragrances with big presence are still so popular. Strong, full of boozy, or animalic notes. We seen plenty of those novelties at Pitti – from new creations of Oliver Durbano, LM Parfums Veleno Dore, Beaufort London’s Iron Duke to Antonio Alessandria’s Gattopardo;
Antonio Alessandria Gattoparo’s presentation- Photo by Persefume
– as the opposite, I have found comfort in truly artistic, nostalgic scents: Parfumerie Moderne Belles Rives and more avant-garde A Lab On Fire California Snow;
– organic perfumery does not mean weak scents with poor longevity – creations of Waters +Wild, 4160 TUESDAYS and Abel Vita Odor proved that there is always a place for innovation and respecting green principles;
– home scents category is growing- from Maison Bereto, impressive UNUM candle and Nuage Maison offerings, Eight&Bob to Anna Paghera, we have bigger selection of candles, room diffusers – and as candle lover, it makes me truly happy!;
UNUM candles
UNUM candles
– Art! UNSCENT’s installation “Fragrance is where you are” by Toshy and Intertrade Group was truly impressive.

UNSCENT “Fragrance is who you are” Installation by Toshy and Intetrade Group. Source: Toshy,
– last, but not least – girl power! More ladies as perfumers, or artistic directors. Examples of new scents by Pissara Umavijani’s Parfums Dusita, Francesca Bianchi, Barbara Herman’s Eris Perfumes, Gabriella Chieffo, Grandiflora’s Saskia Havekes and Marjorie Olibere prove their huge sensibility and understanding customer’s needs.
Parfums Dusita – Photo by Persefume

Without further comments, let’s present my best of list of Pitti Fragranze 15 debuts. How many this time? Of course 15!
In alphabetical order:


The brand says: “Go from headlands to cedar grove to desert. You are carried away on gusts of coastal sage, above the city and into the hills. The lights below match the stars in the sky. A breeze blows rosebuds and dust. This is California snow. Dawn meets boundless light and embraces you. A song rises as whisper: You are who opens within.” It is really reflected in this abstract fragrance meeting nostalgic flowers and dust. Visionary and unforgettable.

gattopardo 1

The new Antonio Alessandiras creation has power to seduce. Strong, so Italian aroma full of whisky, leather and woods. Love it, the fragrance with huge presence which will never go unnoticed.


Beaufort London is on our radar – we definitely should make “He says, she says” focused on this brand. In Iron Duke – the scented tribute to Arthur Wellesley, Duke Of Wellington, Beaufort’s Founder, charismatic Leo Crabtree gave us aroma of smoke, leather, gun powder and booze. So animalic, so raw. That is real essence of artistic perfumery.


Photo by Persefume

This differs a lot from classic Carthusia‘s creations! Luca Maffei composed scent full of coffee and gourmand accords. So positive, so intense, so edible!


Barbara Herman as always teamed up with perfumer Antoine Lie to create woody-animalic scent celebrating gender revolution. Mx. has perhaps little-but modern and sublte feel than rest of Eris Parfums line, yet it is still beautiful and test-worthy composition. Bravo!


Both powdery and animalic, Under My Skin feels very intimate, personal. Sensual tale of love and emotions bottled, can’t wait to test it further.


francesca dell oro

That was quite unexpected, but bold move – the brand teamed-up with Bertrand Duchaufour to create trio of gentle, yet innovative florals: Ice Yasmill, Irupe and Rosmenthe. Can not choose just one – so they all go to the best-of list, impressive.

This time, Gabriella Chieffo totally took my heart with her own creation. Warm, balsamic, ambery. So heavenly and comforting.


Grandiflora is not on my list because of their fine-champagne reception (though it is always a plus!) and gorgeous stand full of flowers, but simply because their scents are just amazing. The brand has repackaged the whole line into new 50ml bottles and introduced Boronia – rich lush floral by Bertrand Duchaufour, with wonderful hay, immortelle undertones.

Photo – Persefume

The new addition to the black collection, Luca Maffei‘s Vanhera is full of dark amber, incense, vanilla and woods. Very elegant, indeed bit nocturnal. This scent is not about the innovation, but emanates elegant, powerful and mysterious aura.


Sinfully rich and decadent, Veleno Dore combines rum, chilli with one of the best tobacco accords of the show. Simply decadent, bravo Laurent Mazzone!

Photo – Persefume

All Pissara Umavijani‘s creations connect with me in the unique way and new Fleur de Lalita is not an exception. Cool floral with magnolia, jasmine and galbanum which is adding up bit masculine, retro/vintage vibe. New Dusita scent is classy and can not wait until it gets the general release next year, along with second brand’s novelty: Erawan.

Photo – Persefume

Here I changed the order – Parfums Dusita should be number 13, but it feels obvious that the number #13 belongs to Durbano’s thirteen fragrant stone interpretation! Honestly, I was not really wowed by the previous creation, but for me Labradorite brings back the brand ino the proper direction. It is complex, dangerously animalic – but still being elegant in so French way.


I need to spend bit more time with this beauty – but just adore the result of another Santiago Burgas and Rodrigo Flores-Roux‘s collaboration. Palindrome III is a quite unique take on osmanthus taking into account both joyful and dirty facets of the flower.



Cecile Zarokian comes back to UERMI with the third “OR” line creation – so comforting, sweet and warm that it will beat every winter blues.

After those 15 best perfumes of the show time also for another 15 in the “new fragrances not to miss” category – equally good scents which should be noted for the further tests and Persefume posts:

1. AETHER – new Celluloid by Amelie Bourgeois/Flair Paris, smelled it too briefly – but first impression was definitely positive one.
Aether Celluloid campaign by Roberto Greco. Photo – Persefume
2. AFFINESSENCE – two new additions to the line Cuir-Curcuma and Musk-Ambergris proved to be very solid, we will cover the whole collection next month.
Photo by Persefume
3. Heeley x Maison Kitsune Note de Yuzu – so bright and optimistic!
4. new Parfums Captives trio by J.F. SCHWARZLOSE BERLIN – for their blend of rare materials and MANE molecules.
Photo by Persefume
5. M.Micallef Ananda Tchai – for another dose of sweet comfort
6. Mancera Red Tobacco – both fresh and sensual take on tobacco accords
Photo by Persefume
7. Nomenclature – Holy_Wood – all Nomenclature’s scents are test-worthy, Frank Voelkl’s Holy_Wood just confirms the rule, tests will follow shortly.
8. Oliver & Co. – so good to see Nebulae series getting EdP variations!
Photo by Persefume
9. Parfumerie Generale 5.1 Suede Osmanthe delivers promises of its name. In the most sophisticated way.
10.Parfumerie Moderne Belle Rives – already mentioned in my intro, it brings harmony and peace with its powdery iris facets.
Photo by Persefume
11. Peccato Originale Gas Antisociale – scented escape from the crowds and best perfume blotters in the shape of gas mask!
Photo by Persefume
12. Profumi del ForteToscanello and Vetiver Moderno have been composed by Arturetto Landi. Brand has been changed a lot recently – heavily discontinuations, new look. Both launches perfectly match new aesthetics of the house.
13. SAMMARCO Yael has been only previewed, but I am sure it will appear on our Esxence 2018 list.
14. Meeting with Andy Tauer was too brief, but Tauerville Patchouli Flash will join the special Persefume post on the line. Bravo for Attar AT to be fully IFRA-compliant!
15. YVRA 1958 L’Essence de Presence smells even better than during Esxence preview – if you like spicy, versatile scents, it is something for you!
Photo by Persefume

It was also lovely to remind myself some previous launches: Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite – even more gorgeous than I remembered from my brand’s meeting in Milano. Olfactive Studio Woody Mood is officially up, the wait for Olibere Paris Savannah’s Heart is also over. I have felt in love in Ulrich Lang’s Apsu – scent I somehow forgot to test before. And Nishane‘s new packaging for Shadow Play trio is simply stunning, I definitely belong to Team Hacivat 🙂

I also applaud to some of new brands, to name the few:

PARCO 1923 line with scent by Luca Maffei which smells so green and natural.
Photo by Persefume
Waters+Wild – fully organic Irish line, felt in love in Cedarwood+Cognac, more coming soon.
Photo by Persefume
IDEO Parfumeurs – new entry straight from Lebanon which will definitely gets “He says, she says coverage”
SERGIO SCAGLIETTI – family of Ferrari designer now also produce fragrances – and the result is pretty impressive!
Photo by Persefume

I regret not spending enough time with Abel Vita Odor, Parfumerie Particuliere (come on – those scents have been composed by my favourite Flair Paris duo!) and Australian Fort and Manle – but promise to make it up for you before the next show.
Parfumerie Pariculiere

Previews… In most of cases my lips are sealed, but we can expect:
– something big from Filippo Sorcinelli;
– Extrait d’Atelier Maitre Ceramiste will be presented at Esxence 2018;
MiN New York has previewed gorgeous Voodoo;
Olibere Savannah’s Heart marks just the start of Luca Maffei’s Extraits collection for the brand
savannah poster
Outside Pitti, I learned that new Pantheon Roma scent has finally the name, Art de Parfum is preparing gorgeous novelty and Baruti will have truly unique room sprays. And that’s just a small part…

Photo by Persefume

And there is no Persefume report without our signature A-Z list of new launches, the most complete and full of our exclusive news. There is also nice giveaway for those who finish reading the post (or scrolling-down 🙂 ).


27 87 Perfumes – no new launches, focus on the recent Hamaca
4160 TUESDAYS – Our Modern Lives – new Sarah McCartney’s collection comprising of: synthetic OML α and OML β plus organic: Harvest-Red-Gratitude, Sunset-Orange-Peace, Sunsrise-Yellow-Hope, Leaf-Green-New, Waves/Wi-fi-Aquamarine-Clarity, Blue Screen/Blue Horizon-Perspective, Indigo-Into the Night. Also showcased: Eau My Soul fragrance

A LAB ON FIRE – debut of California Snow plus focus on the latest My Own Private Teahupo’o
ABEL VITA ODOR – first time at Pitti, organic scents from 2016: Golden Neroli, Cobalt Amber, Grey Labdanum, Red Santal, White Vetiver
BRUNO ACAMPORA PROFUMI – EdP versions of the last year’s 7 Rules Collection
ACCA KAPPA – no new launches, focus of 2016’s Idillio and Fior d’Aqua
ACQUA DI STRESA – focus on the entire 2016 collection including body line
AEDES DE VENUSTAS – focus on the recent Pelargonium
AETHER – launch of the Methaldone and preview of Celluloid (nose: Amelie Bourgeois/Flair Paris)
AFFINESSENCE – two new EdPs: Cuir-Curcuma and Musk-Ambergris
AGONIST – focus on the recent White Lies
ALCHIMISTA – no new launches
ALTAIA – Tuberose in Blue
ALYSONOLDOINI – focus on 2016’s Diafana Skin
ANNA PAGHERA – focus on the new interior scents line
ANTICA BARBIERIA COLLA – no new launches
ARTE PROFUMI – Total Body Cream (cream extending longevity of brand’s creations)
ATELIER DES ORS – no new launches
ATELIER OBLIQUE – four new creations: Closer, Saint, The Eternal, White Light
AU PAYS DE LA FLEUR D’ORANGER – focus on Eau d’Virigine
AZAGURY LONDON – no new launches

BEAUFORT LONDON – Iron Duke, first scent from the Revenants collection
BENTLEY FRAGRANCES – focus on the Momentum Intense
BLOOD CONCEPT – no new launches
BULLFROG – Secret Potion No. 3
CALE’ FRAGRANZE D’AUTORE – no new launches
CARNER BARCELONA – no new launches, also present at brand’s stand: 2016’s Teresa Helbig collection
CARON – repackaging changes
CARTHUSIA I PROFUMI DI CAPRI – Terra Mia Extrait and EdP (Luca Maffei/Atelier Fragranze Milano)
CHABAUD MAISON DE PARFUM – focus on the recent Lait et Chocolat.
COLLECTION CROISIERE – focus on the recent Paris Fidji
COQUILLETE PARIS – Vesuvius and focus on the Collection 7
CREED – focus on the recent White Amber
CZECH AND SPEAKE – no new launches

DAVID JOURQUIN – no new launches
DEAR ROSE – Oud Vibration
DFG1924 – focus on Spring 2017 novelties
DI SER – another participation of this Japanese natural perfumes brand
DIANE PERNET PARIS – focus on 2016’s Love Affair
DS&DURGA – no new launches

E.MARINELLA – 4.0 Collection: Cyber Cuir, Hyper Wood Spicy Lab
EAU D’ITALIE – focus on the recent Eau Greta
EIGHT & BOB – new interior scents line including candles and room diffusors
EMMANUEL LEVAIN – preview of four new creations: Lake, Pure Plum, Real Life and Le Oud Royal
ESCENTRIC MOLECULES – focus on the Escentric/Molecule 04
ESSENZIALMENTE LAURA-L. Bosetti Tonatto – Flora, Pepe, Bosco, Mare and new Il Segreti di Taif (rose-based body care)
EXTRAIT D’ATELIER – preview of Maitre Ceramiste
FIILIT PARFUM DU VOYAGE – first time at Pitti, three travel-inspired fragrances composed by Flair Paris, new: 100ml size
FLORIS – general release of Turnbull & Asser 71/72 plus focus on the recent Chypress
FLUMEN – focus on the current line
FORT AND MANLE PARFUM – Australian brand, first time at Pitti including the recent Harem Rose release
FRAGONARD – Pivoine, Rose Lavande
FRANCESCA BIANCHI – preview of Under My Skin
FRANCESCA DELL’ORO PARFUM – new floral line by Bertrand Duchaufour: Ice Yasmill, Irupe, Rosmenthe
FRANCK BOCLET – no new launches

GOTI – focus on the recent Alchemico Visione series
GRANDIFLORA FRAGRANCE – repackaging of the entire line, launch of Boronia by Bertrand Duchaufour

HEELEY – Heeley x Maison Kitsune Note de Yuzu
HUITIEME ART – focus on the repackaged line
HUMIECKI & GRAEF – no new launches

IDEO PARFUMEURS – first time at Pitti, focus on the latest six personal fragrances plus three Eau de Linergie
IL PROFVMO – Silvana
IN HOUSE FRAGRANCES – focus on the entire home line
INEKE SAN FRANCISCO – focus on the latest Idyllwild
J.F. SCHWARZLOSE BERLIN – Parfum Captive #1/#2/#3 Extratis trio
JACQUES FATH – focus on the entire collection
JARDIN DE FRANCE – focus on the recent Source d’Orgine line
JEAN-CHARLES BROSSEAU – Fleurs d`Ombre The Poudree
JEROBOAM – no new launches
JOVOY – presentation of the winning # What Matters is Inside – Italy scent by Andrea Casotti, also focus on the recent Rose Millessime
JUL ET MAD PARIS – focus on the recent Les Whites collection additions

KINSKI – no new launches
KNIZE – no new launches
LA MAISON DE LA VANILLE – six scents within two lines: Continental Spirit and Vanille En Mediterranee
LA PARFUMERIE MODERNE – Belles Rives, as always by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato
LABORATORIO OLFATTIVO – the second scent from Black line: Vanhera by Luca Maffei/Atelier Fragranze Milano
LALIQUE PARFUMS – no new launches
LAURENT MAZZONE PARFUMS – Veleno Dore Extrait de Parfum from Gold Label Collection
LE GALION – no new launches
LINARI – no new launches
LOCHERBER MILANO – new home line additions plus debuting line of personal fragrances

PARFUMS M.MICALLEF – focus on the recent Ananda Tchai
MAISON MAJDA BEKKALI – no new launches
MAISON BERETO Fragranze in Arte – Chimera, new interior fragrances line by Michele Marin
MAISON INCENS – focus on the recent Moroccan Tales collection
MANCERA PARIS – new collection: Black Vanilla, Gold Aoud, Pink Roses, Purple Flowers, Red Tobacco plus focus on the recent Musky Garden
MANSFIELD – Lunare Project : Acqua Lunare no.1
MARIELLA MARTINATO – no new launches
MARK BUXTON PERFUMES – no new launches
MEO FUSCIUNI – focus on the recent L’Oblio
MIGONE DAL 1866 – focus on the entire interior scents range
MILLER ET BERTAUX – Indian Study / Santal +++
MIN NEW YORK – preview of Scent Stories: Voodoo
MIRKO BUFFINI FIRENZE – new EdPs line: HCE Collection
MIYA SHINMA PARFUMS – new L’Eau De Miya collection: Kikyo, Momo, Matsuba, Ruri and Yama Buki
MONOM – Brama
MONTALE PARIS – Arabians, Black Aoud Intense, Day Dreams, Sweet Peony plus Body Creams range
MORPH PARFUM – Axum and Indomable

NAOMI GOODSIR PARFUMS – official launch of Nuit Bakelite
NEELA VERMEIRE CREATIONS – no new launches, focus on the latest Rahele
NISHANE – new outer packaging for the Shadow Play trio
NOBILE 1942 – focus on Levante and the recent Luca Maffei’s 1001

ODEJO – no new launches
OFFICINA DELLE ESSENZE – no new launches
OLFACTIVE STUDIO – the official launch of Woody Mood
OLIBERE – the official launch of Savannah’s Heart – the beginning of collection composed by Luca Maffei
OLIVER & CO. – EdP versions of Nebula 1 and Nebula
OLIVIER DURBANO – the 13th fragrance: Labradorite
ONYRICO – new sub-brand ANIMA MUNDI with Ankh Sun Amon, Dusara, Isvara, Pompeii, Tikal
OPTICO – focus on the current four creations
ORIZA L. LEGRAND PARFUMS – focus on the latest realeases including classic additions of Gentry Jockey Club and Les Tourterelles de Zelmis plus concentrated Les Eaux de Cologne collection trio comprising of Extra Vieille Cologne, L’Eau De Corse Cologne and La Fleur D’Oranger Cologne
ORLOV PARIS – focus on the latest Golden Prince and Blue Lili
ORMONDE JAYNE – focus on the latest exclusives including White Gold and Ambroisé

PARCO 1923 – first time on Pitti, focus on the signature fragrance/bodycare line composed by Luca Maffei
PARFUMERIE GENERALE – 5.1 Suede Osmanthe
PARFUMERIE PARTICULIERE – first time on Pitti, collection of fragrances composed by Flair Paris, eight creations including 2017 additions
PARFUMS DUSITA – secret preview of Fleur de Lalita and Erawan to be launched in 2018
PARFUMS QUARTANA – no new launches
PECCATO ORIGINALE – new Gas Antisociale EdP and La Pillola (al bisogno) Room Spray
PHAEDON – Ilanguara
PININFARINA – no new launches
PLACE DES LICES – new collection Les Tropeziennes (10 creations)
PREPARATION PARFUMEE ANDREE PUTMAN – focus on the recent Tubéreuse Interdite
PROFUMI DEL FORTE – Toscanello and Vetiver Moderno, both by Arturetto Landi

RANCE’ 1795 – Secret Euphorie
RANIA J. – no new launches
RE PROFUMO – no new launches
BOUGIES RIGAUD – no new launches
ROADS – updated design for the line, discontinuations and new creations: Art Addict, End Game, Flower Mountain, Fool Around, Unsaid
ROUGE BUNNY ROUGE – no new launches
RPL PARFUMS – no new launches

S-PERFUME – no new launches
SAMMARCO – preview of Yael
SANTA EULALIA – focus on the recent Aprilis
SANTI BURGAS – Palindrome III, again composed by Santiago Burgas and Rodrigo Flores-Roux
SAUF – no new launches
SCENT BAR – 800 and 900
SERGIO SCAGLIETTI – new line of four creations: Racing Green, Racing Orange, Racing Steel, Racing Yellow
SIMONE ANDREOLI DIARIO OLFATTIVO – Don’t Ask Me Permission (Scent of Rio) plus new Sentoza The Night Escape (Scent of Singapore)
SINFONIA DI NOTE – Ambra Del Cashmere, Soffio d’Iris, The Nero, Vetyver.
SoOUD – no new launches
STEPHANE HUMBERT LUCAS – no new launches

TAUER PERFUMES – Tauerville Patchouli Flash, Tauer Attar AT
TEATRO FRAGRANZE UNICHE – new Pistola Spray room sprays
TECHNIQUE INDISCRETE – new additions: Centenaire, Fleur de Papier, Sanguis Terrae
BY TERRY – Terry de Gunzburg Délectation Splendide
TFK – no new launches
TIZIANA TERENZI – focus on the recent Delox, Focanero, Velorum and Vele
TOLA – focus on the recent Kaif
UERMI FRAGRANCE COLLECTION – OR ± Kanabo – again by Cecile Zarokian
ULRICH LANG NEW YORK – focus on the recent Apsu
UNUM – new candles and incense kit, new look for LAVS Nuage Maison

V CANTO – updated packaging, focus on the recent Arsenico
VERDÚU – focus on the recent Christopher Shannon creation
WATERS + WILD – new organic brand from Ireland with four creations Cedarwood + Cognac, Rose + Oud, Sweet Basil + Bergamot, Tuberose + Frankincense plus matching candles

WIDIAN BY AJ ARABIA – focus on the recent Delma and Liwa

YOU FIRST PURA RINASCITA – new well-being line of perfumed bodycare plus personal/home fragrances including EdPs and Eau Fraiche
YVRA 1958 – the final version of L’Essence de Presence

ZARKOPERFUME – Cloud Collection: Stratus
ZERO MOLECOLE – no new launches

Also showcased during separate events e.g.: Etat Libre d’Orange Une Amourette Roland Mouret, upcoming Pantheon Roma and new scent by Nicolai Parfumeur Createur.


AND FINALLY… GIVEAWAY TIME! – We have worldwide giveaway of samples selection from brands present at Pitti.
You can win one generous pack including:
– two Parfums Dusita EdP 2ml spray samples of Le Sillage Blanc and La Douceur de Siam
– 2ml spray sample of Olibere Savannah’s Heart Extrait de Parfum
– one 3ml spray sample of Nomemclature lumen_esce
– three samples of SANTI BURGAS: Santi Burgas Signature (2ml), Oud de Burgas and OIKB EdPs (3ml spray each)
– perfumed 2.5ml sachet of YVRA 1958 L’Essence de Presence

Just comment what you liked in this report (scents, trends etc.) and follow our Persefume’s Facebook. Do not forget we are now also on Instagram!
All comments are moderated and will appear after our approval. Deadline until 26 September 2017 – we will announce the winner (chosen via day later under this post. Best luck!

pitti outer
Photo by Persefume

As always, Jakub and Aleksandra of Persefume want to thank all our brand founders representatives and greet our friends among bloggers (Marina Donato, Elena, Miguel and the rest of Fragrantica Team, Ermano Picco, Antonia Moreale, ‎Juraj Sotošek-Rihtarec, Megan Paki, Karolina Stockhaus, Anna Stoian, Michaela Mahringer, Cristian Miuccio Cavagna Sebastian Jara, Wim Janssens and many more!). Love to Anais Biguine and Ruta Degutyte – enjoyed our glimpse meeting! Personal thanks to Cezary. See you all soon!

Photos and quotes via brand’s press releases – unless stated otherwise.