Jul et Mad Paris
First of all: where does the name come from? Why “white” when all the juices are definitely reddish?

It’s about the name (of Julien and Madalina)—it’s Blanchard, and ‘blanche’ stands for ‘white’ in French. People started to call them Les White. A party? Let’s invite Les White… Call les White… And so it settled. All in all it’s a continuation of a love story.

Apart from perfumes, Madalina and Julien love ancient cultures. They are main themes of the new collection, packed in hand-made, white, lacquered boxes. The bottles are bathed in gold, and then the excess of metal is removed by laser. They look gorgeous.

Jul et Mad Les White Nin-Shar

Jul et Mad Les White Nin-Shar

Nin-Shar is an interpretation of the hanging Gardens of Babylon, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World
In Sumerian mythology, Nin-Shar is the Goddess of Plants. She is the daughter of Ninhursag, Goddess of Fertility,and Enki, God of the Waters.

Nin-Shar is the beginning of the whole Les ‘White’ story. Jul et Mad planned to have only one new scent in 2015. Is it a coincidence that Nin-Shar is daughter of goddess of fertility and one multiplied into three? I don’t think so. “We wanted to concentrate on rose, but we obtained such wonderful raw materials that it would be wrong just to abandon them, not to do anything with them”—says Madalina. Luckily for us all, because the ingredients are truly wonderful and arranged masterfully.

Nin-Shar is the most red and the saddest of three. The juice stains skin with pink, so be careful with white shirts. Droplets of precious oils fly out of my spray when I use it—I was little afraid that the story of Nouveau-Ne by Humiecki and Graef would repeat (it had so much oil in it the pump was clogging and they needed to change the formula), but nothing wrong happened so far, the spray works fine, and I use it a lot. Frankly I only use Les White recently. They all have something in common but also cover lots of needs and moods.

Nin-Shar rose is everything but the juicy, airy and ethereal roses of mainstream hits, but also it is not a typical dark-somber niche rose. It is a real perfume, huge, static and lofty. I see it as a slowly turning hologram made of dark matter, pulsating with dark energy. Sometimes sound reflects ideas better than words, so listen to our sun singing – this rose absorbed it all.

Notes: bergamot, rose liquor, davana essence; Turkish rose absolute, jasmin of Egypt, patchouli fraction; oudh, benjoin, bourbon vanilla, Virginia cedarwood, sandalwood, incense absolute
Released: 2015;
Perfumer: Sidonie Lancesseur, Robertet, Grasse.

Jul et Mad Les White Garuda

Jul et Mad Les White Garuda

Garuda is homage to the great Angkor civilization. A mythical divinity, Garuda is portrayed as part man and part bird in Khmer mythology. He is the lord of birds, an allegorical figure of Indian inspiration. Thousands of Garuda depictions decorate the bas-reliefs of the magnificent Angkor Watt, the divinity being usually shown as the battle steed of Vishnu or Krishna, bearing the god on his shoulders, and simultaneously fighting against the god’s enemies.

The information of Angkor inspiration sent shivers down my spine, because it is one of the most amazing civilisations on the face of Earth, and a very unearthly one, quite alien in my opinion. I dream of visiting Angkor Watt and I feel Garuda takes me step closer to fulfilling this dream.

Madalina told me about the moment the idea of this perfume was born: the sun was setting behind the temple and it shined in countless reliefs of Garuda on the floor. This multiplied image in gold was captured by young, extraordinarily talented perfumer, Luca Maffei (remember this name). If you thought: “oh, how many times am I supposed to be amazed by an oud” let me tell you I was thinking the same thing, and I was all wrong. If it was not Madalina, who told me, wouldn’t believe Garuda was based on this worn-out note, because it cannot be detected instantly and directly. As Phillippe K. (a perfume expert and advisor, another great person in Jul et Mad team) told me, Garuda is “direction oud”, as if all the ingredients were just parallels to the one not-drawn being the resultant of all those observable, tangible notes. A phantom arrow, a shadow on firmament, a last ray of sun in thick air. Garuda flies so high it is invisible, but it casts an enormous shadow. The perfume is strong, long-lasting and saturated, filling the space with sweet, woody notes. A favourite of mine.

Notes: bergamot, orange, cumin, pink pepper; Cambodian oudh, saffron, rhum;  patchouli, timbersilk, vetiver Java, cedarwood, cashmeran, amber, vanilla, musk;
Released: 2015;
Perfumer: Luca Maffei, Atelier Fragranze Milano

Jul et Mad Les White Nea

Jul et Mad Les White Nea

Néa is a tribute to the Golden Age in Byzance and reflects the over the top opulence during the peak of the Eastern Roman Empire.

The opening is dominated by heavy, opulent fruity notes black with pepper. Head notes usually burst with juice, but here we have drops of syrup, thick and nourishing liquid of somewhat resinous consistence, warming the spirit. It reminds me a bit of Aziyade, but the feeling disappears after ten minutes—where Perfume d’Empire indulges into debauchery frenzy, Jul et Mad composition tightens her lips. Dry and austere side of fruit appears, and is further strengthened by adamant rose and serious plum. Néa turns uncanny, the accord seems like a tangled well, a labyrinth going strictly down. The journey unexpectedly finishes in brighter, sea-side regions, the dryness gives way to sweetness and cool, beach notes. Fruits in Néa appear to be salty and stony. That’s how a sand-wolf of starry eyes might smell like.

Notes: date, davana, pomegranate, palm leaf, black pepper; jasmin sambac, rosa damascena, dry plum; patchouli, cashmeran, vanilla, benzoin, caramel, tonka bean, ambroxan, musk;
Released: 2015;
Perfumer: Luca Maffei, Atelier Fragranze Milano.