Today’s Persefume “He says, she says” by Jakub and Aleksandra is dedicated to Luigi Borrelli – Neapolitan fashion house which also introduced three Royal Collection fragrances inspired by Italian art of fine tailoring and exceptional fabrics.


Luigi Borrelli fragrances: Cotton, Vicuna Wool and Cashmere

All three Luigi Borrelli Napoli creations are amazingly crafted, genderless (even if brand accentuates its masculine heritage) and totally deserve more recognition! We have encountered them first at 2017’s Pitti Fragranze and the recent opening of official Borrelli’s e-shop is the perfect chance to present our full impressions. Although house does not disclose perfumer’s name, both quality and talent could be easily felt.

The real olfactory equivalent of the House’s signature style, Royal Collection of Fragrances by Luigi Borrelli symbolizes, after Fabio Borrelli, “universal moments in a man’s life which he fills with sense and emotions” that are reflected in precious, pointedly masculine fragrances COTTON, VICUNA WOOL and CASHMERE. Perfumers’ expertise turned eponymous fabrics into aromatic symbols: COTTON incarnates a new beginning, VICUNA WOOL refers to a brilliant celebration, and CASHMERE brings out the idea of respect for power. Bergamot is the ingredient that marks the whole collection, being a reference for traditional Eaux de Cologne and creating bright and uniquely Italian character. Considering the collection’s design the brand also follows “masculine” approach: heavy transparent glass bottles are crowned with oily-shining metal stoppers with sharp edges and brand logo engraved. Thick dark-blue outer package originally closes with string and button, copying the style of Luigi Borrelli’s tie packaging that is an accessory for real gentlemen. Strings are painted in different colours according to perfume.

COTTON

Cotton is one of the symbols of the Luigi Borrelli House, part of the brand’s DNA. The seeming simplicity of the fabric becomes its advantage: cotton is all-purpose and it’s gentle to one’s skin; this is cotton that touches our skin more often than other fabrics. We confide to cotton clothes our comfort, and this confidence turns into the feeling of cosiness, precious to each one regardless gender, age and social status. COTTON Luigi Borrelli is an aromatic interpretation of the popular fabric where the values and philosophy of the Fashion House were reflected. Feeling of purity and freshness that opens the composition is created with green energy of clary sage with bright sparks of anise – snowy-white shirt that you start a new day with can smell like this. Feeling of comfort and cosiness is created with vanilla-iris union in the heart of the fragrance. Soft velvety texture is underlined with elegant rose note together with woody-ambery base accord that brings in the element of luxury. Noble character and unique quality of materials are translated by the perfumer blurring shadows and edges of the composition with a furry musky brush. COTTON recalls a touch of a thick, firm, but elegant Luigi Borrelli shirt. Feel its smoothness and softness, follow the form and fabric’s curves with your fingers and touch tailors’ craftsmanship reflected in this exquisite and sophisticated fragrance that embraces you with elegant caress.

Top notes: bergamot, rose, lavender
Heart notes: orris, clary sage, oak moss
Base notes: amber, cedar, musk, vanilla, vetiver

He – Very quiet, minimalistic, yet elegant fragrance. It perfectly connects with your body as fragrant equivalent of white shirt. Iris and lavender play the pivotal role, while herbs add aromatic touch of Italian flair. Ideal everyday fragrance, perhaps too shy for my tastes, but definitely interesting.
Edit: How amazing is to read same “white cotton shirt” impressions by Aleksandra, it just shows that perfume’s brief is trully well executed.

She – the most delicate of the three, a timid and shy one comparing to the boldness of Cashmere and strong personality of Vicuna Wool. Clean and simple, thanks to a fairy-like orris note, it feels natural as a white cotton t-shirt, the best option for hot weather or whenever you desire simplicity underlining other features – like your face, voice or personality. One may say it’s a plain, white background, but if you look closely you’ll notice tiny, geometrical, intricate fractal patterns within the whiteness – sharp clary sage note, striking lavender-vetiver combo. But once you lose focus – the pattern mellows into a greater blend of lights.
Zodiac sign: Pisces. A dawn of this collection.

CASHMERE

Cashmere is a real miracle of the fabric industry, – precious and noble fabric that arrived in Europe from Asia. Italy is famous for the most quality cashmere wool handling and Luigi Borrelli House isn’t an exception. All-purposeness of the fabric as well as its functional and aesthetic characteristics made cashmere clothes popular and appreciated all over the world. CASHMERE is an aromatic ode that celebrates a contrast between seeming subtlety and actual durability of cashmere. The perfumer created the whole composition based on a contrast and interaction between transparent musky phase of the fragrance and its dark, woody-resinous side. Main accord is built around the multifaceted labdanum note that possesses balmy, alcohol, ambery and animalic shades. It “turns” to cashmere with the help of spicy, woody and musky-powdery embrace – like Europe and Asia are melting in this scent. After brisk bergamot start there are black pepper and incense that array labdanum with semi-transparent smoky shawl, watering down metal clink and spicy cloves’ hot breath in the background. Together with spicy-balmy accord there is a rich woody theme developing in CASHMERE fragrance – creamy cedar, smoky-flowery guaiacwood and soft vetiver are singing in a choir of deep voices. Joining like puzzle pieces, fragrant accords create a gentle whisper changing into powerful and rich voice. CASHMERE is complex but amazingly harmonious perfume where opposite features are combined like in cashmere.

Top notes: black pepper, bergamot
Heart notes: incense, labdanum, guaiac wood
Base notes: vetiver, soil, musk

He – That is powerful, warm and eccentric perfume with the real statement. Actually, it feels for me like a perfect replacement for long-gone Norma Kanali Incense as in both cases it is all about golden, resinous labdanum, spices and monumental incense. Potent, quite linear, simply amazing.

She – a variation on one of the most popular niche themes – incense – and it’s hard not to fall in love with this one, as it’s perfectly executed. The initial blast of black pepper lifts the holy smoke straight to heavens. The fumes are made of my favourite note in perfumes – labdanum, which sounds a white shriek to me. This one is also angelic. Can you imagine the pure potency of this mix? Screaming Archangel nose-diving towards the Earth, flying or falling? Saint or Satan? What’s the difference, and most of all: is there?
Zodiac sign: Leo. A divine perfume, a shining star and the noon of this collection.

VICUNA WOOL

Vicuna wool is one of the rarest high-quality wool types, therefore – one of the most expensive. In Inca Empire vicuna wool was used only for emperors’ and sacred idols’ vestments. The wool has often been sacrificed or presented in order to merit the favour of supreme forces or power brokers. Despite its fineness, this soft fabric is rather firm what makes it desirable for tailors who can give sophisticated forms to warm clothes with the help of vicuna wool. VICUNA WOOL by Luigi Borrelli is a Chypre fragrance consecrated to vetiver – one of the most popular perfume ingredients used in modern masculine perfumery. Perfumers often say that vetiver brings to a composition not only elegant touch, but also intellect, and it’s addressed to those who prefer calm and noble woody smells. VICUNA WOOL offers to appreciate the traditional combination of vetiver and citrusy accord with Italian bergamot in its core. Black pepper underlined with tangy elemi resin brings harmony and certain opaqueness to the composition, and merges later into classical Chypre accord of oak moss, patchouli and amber. Combined with a masculine note of bitter leather, this accord spotlights top and heart notes in order to deliver the tactile feeling of touching a fine sweater made of natural wool as if it’s been added the finest vetiver fiber. This is an ode to elegance and cosiness incarnated in a rare and luxurious fabric; an homage to stature and high station.

Top notes: lemon, bergamot, black pepper, elemi
Heart notes: nagarmotha, lily-of-the-valley, oak moss, leather
Base notes: vetiver, amber, cedar, musk, patchouli

He – Vicuna Wool for me is all about class and power. Perhaps less-polished than Cotton, but timeless and traditional to the chypre and vetiver/patchouli core. The sartorial fragrance and the instant classic.

She – I would understand if the reader presumed Cashmere is my favourite of the series – after all I’ve just written about it. Well, that’s not the case. Blinded by the light of Cashmere I didn’t recognised Vicuna Wool first. It seemed scratchy and so down-to-earth in comparison with the Archangel Labdanum. But slowly, slowly, as I was recovering from the spell, I realised just how well done and reliable Vicuna Wool is. It does not promise you heavens, in fact it’s not promising at all, but hard-working instead. The base notes – especially vetiver and patchouli – are heavy from the very beginning, all the lighter themes such as citruses and flowers are just mentioned here as a memory. All three fragrances are for men, so when I imagine a man behind Vicuna Wool I see someone experienced with life lessons, perhaps a little somber and saturnine, but this one I would trust with my life. Somehow he outshines the bright and loud Cashmere, which after all is all about his great ego, brilliant on the outside, whilst Vicuna Wool man is much more introvert, prudent and modest. A treasure buried deep.
Zodiac sign: Capricorn. The evening of this collection, dark, safe and satisfied.

All Luigi Borrelli fragrances are available as Eaux de Parfum 100ml, 180EUR and interesting Discovery Set of 3 x 10ml EdPs, 85EUR from company’s e-store and official stockists.

Pictures and samples by Luigi Borrelli, opinions – our own.