Today Persefume‘s He Says, She says by Jakub and Aleksandra covers two recent collections by Jul et Mad and Evody which actually have lot in common: both have been exclusively announced on our page, both come from interesting French houses using top perfumers and finally, both lines are inspired by different facets of art.

Let’s start from Jul et Mad and their new Les White Chapter 2. We really love the brand, its concept and most of all, its charming Founders – Julien and Madalina. The line debuted with beautiful Classics – Dorothee Piot’s rich, elegant floral Stilettos on Lex, Terrasse à St-Germain with transparent rose-patchouli combo and leathery-animalic amber of Amour de Palazzo. Then came Cecile Zarokian’s Aqua Sextius – the unique, gourmand take on aquatic theme and most recently Luca Maffei’s exquisite Secret du Paradis Rouge (click for our review).

jul et mad classiques
Jul et Mad The Classic Collection – campaign by talented Roberto Greco

Then Les White trio arrived – proud, incredibly bold, decadent and opulent tribute to Orient: Luca Maffei’s warm and boozy Garuda, sensual Néa and almost erotic rose of Nin-Shar by Sidonie Lancesseur. Aleksandra reviewed them in the so evocative article, one of the first Persefume’s posts ever.

jul et mad les whites
Jul et Mad Les Whites – photo by Roberto Greco

Expectations for Les White vol. 2 have been set high, especially with our announcement. How is the reality? Let’s find out with our “He says, she says”:

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BELLA DONNA (composed by Luca Maffei, Atelier Fragranze Milano)

Head: Bergamot, Ginger Fresh, Mulberry Accord
Heart: Magnolia Flower, Jasmine Abs., Centifolia Rose Abs., Orris Butter, Ylang Ylang
Bottom: Sandalwood, Saffron, Benzoin, Opoponax, Labdanum, Musk

He – White floral. Ylang-Ylang, tuberose. It is elegant, but so classic. It doesn’t bring anything new to the genre – but perhaps it doesn’t have to?

She – Observing its acetate facet is quite a fascinating thing – rarely this fraction is so easy to bear and swallow. Overall a nice yellow-white floral, but without a twist, which I feel is deeply needed in scents like this. I almost have this feeling that pure ylang ylang oil is more interesting than this.

FUGIT AMOR (composed by Stéphanie Bakouche)

Head: Pink Pepper, Elemi, Ginger, Cardamom, Cinnamon
Heart: Carnation
Bottom: Vetiver, Cedarwood, Amber, Musk

He – Truly spicy, but somehow not as dense as it should be comparing to previous Les White creatons. It has some sharp, almost cooling quality which might resemble cold marble indeed. Original, but at the end too floating perfume!

She – Bursts with fresh, green fountain of cardamom and ginger, sweetened by cool but not medicinal carnation. I love the scent of this flower in the air, used in perfumes though it may be tricky, because it gets cloying more often than not. And thankfully not here, caught in firm embrace by refreshing, spicy notes, which make it volatile and somewhat tasty. The perfume is pleasant but flies from the skin quite fast.

MON SEUL DÉSIR (composed by Stéphanie Bakouche)

Head: Nutmeg, Mandarin, Pink Pepper
Heart: Osmanthus, Coriander, Oudh
Bottom: Benzoin, Musk, Guaiac Wood, Amber, Leather Notes

He – Sharp citruses, hint of leather and smoky notes. The first scent of Jul et Mad which really left me cold-hearted, even despite the first so positive reaction.

She – It has this vibrant, cassis beginning, but already tinged with a sharp, masculine note – that’s pepper and other spices, but for some reason they smell cheap here. It’s sad to say it, but from this point I cannot go beyond shallow, pulpy mixture that is neither floral nor leathery. Just annoying and redundant, as if something went wrong with proportions.

He – I will pretend that Les Whites Part 2 did not happen still loving opulence of the first trio! They should be much dense, rich, sensual – and instead we get some deja-vu scents not behaving as Extraits instead. I love you and I am sorry, Jul et Mad, but you can do much better!

She – I am really sorry to say it, as Jul et Mad line was, and still is one of my favourite niche lines, thanks to pure, classic wonders of the original line and opulent, abundant oriental beauties of Les Whites 1, but this addition seems completely unnecessary to me. Please, don’t dilute your uniqueness with mediocrity.

Now moving to the second line – EVODY Collection Galerie – three Eaux de Parfum: Couleur Fauve, Tubéreuse Manifeste and Sens Abstrait composed by Cécile Zarokian.

Evody Parfums Collection Galerie

Evody Parfums started with Collection Premiere (later most of scents has been reformulated with help of Flair Paris) which we still need to review. We have had mixed feelings about Collection d’Ailleurs, later continued with Onde 7. How is the third line then?

Notes: Sichuan pepper, Pink peppercorn, Bergamot, Amber, Cistus-labdanum, Patchouli, Vanilla, Benzoin, Castoreum, Ambergris infusion

He – Collection Galerie is line of EdPs, but actually they project as good as Extraits – great longevity and aura. Colour Fauve is most ambitious from the line, very carnal, almost animalic. Amber, resins, balmy labdanum – accords so loved by Cecile Zarokian. Amazing effort to create something special and what matters the most: with really positive result.

She – The most difficult perfume of the three is Couleur Fauve – a rich, animalic concoction, ripe with amber and castoreum, that always smells faecal on my skin. This warm and furry content is juxtaposed with a sharp patchouli-ambergris facet, little salty, somewhat piquant. Together they sound pretty harsh on my skin, like a male after a hard day’s work. I really do not resonate with this interpretation of ‘Happiness of Life’ by Matisse – Couleur Fauve seems quite monochromatic on my skin, but I appreciate the effort. The scent itself changes after about 15 minutes, it becomes milder, better-connected, cohesive and warm.

Notes: Rum, Roman camomile, green and crispy notes, Davana, Tuberose, Rose absolute, Iris butter, Labdanum, Vanilla absolute, Animal and Leathery notes

He – Boozy, drunk, even drugged tuberose. Narcotic, decadent aura – so heavy, so nocturnal. Perhaps it is not the most innovative take on tuberose, yet result is completely divine.

She – Tuberose Manifeste is my favourite scent of the line, which is surprising as I rarely even tolerate this snake flower. Here it’s paired with rum notes, which apparently is the way to make lovable tuberose (a trick first discovered by long lost Vamp a NY by Honore des Pres). The perfume is heavy and sticky, but also inexplicably joyful. It buzzes with sweet, bitter and even acetate notes, which somehow are not only acceptable, but necessary here – they only add to the wholesome richness. As it dries down it changes into something very elegant with notes of labdanum, iris, leather and vanille, with a slightly crazy undertone of the title, venomous flower. A raw beauty.

Notes: Citrus fruits, Green notes, Floral notes, Woody and amber notes

He – It feels uncomplicated, but the more you wear it, the more you feel its complexity and abstraction. Citrus notes are mixed with some woods and amber giving you the fragrance which makes you smile and just feel good. I love it!

She – Sens Abstrait is mild and easy to wear from the very beginning. It’s a simple and happy mix of citruses, green notes and velvet wood. Carries resemblance to Escentric 01. Pretty blunt in the end.

He – Collection Galerie is very solid, well-thought offering, with real personality. I liked how visions of the scents have been translated into complex fragrances – perfect collaboration betwen Evody duo Régine Droin, Cérine Vasseur and perfumer Cecile Zarokian.

She – As I mentioned in a previous review on this house, I wasn’t very impressed by Evody creations, which seemed ok but really neither necessary nor worth the price. So today I am really glad to announce that something has changed in their new Galerie collection – and for good I hope. It’s not groundbreaking, but at least interesting, even captivating.

Both collections are on the market now – more information in the previous annoucements.
Pictures and quotes – brands’ materials, opinions – our own.