The 20th edition of our “He says, she says” column. He: Jakub and She: Aleksandra of Persefume — two people, two genders, two opinions, both valuable, both sincere. Sometimes similar, sometimes contrasting — we test without checking each other’s impressions. Choose what fits you better.
In this part we are focusing on the latest scents by niche pioneer – Comme des Garcons (new CdG’s Gosha Rubchinskiy creation will be presented in the separate article) plus houses of Orto Parisi and Nasomatto, both by great Italian nose Alessandro Gualtieri .
Let us move straight to our double reviews then!
Grace by Grace Coddington – in collaboration with COMME DES GARCONS
Created by Comme des Garcons Parfum Creative Director, Christian Astuguevieille, Grace’s long time love of roses served as his inspiration for the scent, and Fabien Baron and his team worked closely with Grace to create the distinctive bottle. The bottle’s cap was clearly inspired by Grace’s not-so secret love of her cats, and the packaging showcases some of her original and unique drawings.
Notes: Bergamot, mint, basil, cardamom, pink pepper, peach blossom, Moroccan rose, freesia, mint, cashmeran, white musk, amber.
He – Green, springy and… graceful rose! Transparent and very wearable, with refreshing herbal nuances and delicate musks. A little bit ethereal creation – but no beauty lasts forever.
She – I know this is supposed to be about rose, but the truth is that what I love about this perfume is how it reminds me of my beloved grandma and her admiration for peonies. This is mostly a peony scent to me, as this flower is – pink and white, growing from a small ball to a huge fist of a flower, rich, full-bodied and sensual, yet still innocent with this fresh feeling of May, dew on petals, sun within. Nice projection and longevity.
COMME DES GARCONS DOT
CDG DOT captures the suave floralcy with fruity tonalities that emanates from the blossoms with radiant green notes to illustrate the leaves and white ambery woods that reflect the bark of the Osmantus tree.
Notes: Leafy greeness, Bitter orange, Pepper, Osmanthus absolute, Olibanum, White amber woods
He – Real dissapointment. Mainstream fruity-floral mess – actually much better scents reside on average Sephora‘s shelves. Pity that many of CdG Series gems are discontinued in favor of such new creations. Declared olibanum in the base is non-existent.
She - A generic, watery-flowery-fruity concoction right from the 90’s. This should be considered obsolete and hence forbidden. Nothing to see here, move along.
COMME DES GARCONS BLACK PEPPER
An electric collision of molecules: the crash of spicy pepper seeds suspended within infinite darkness. A resonant reverberation of dynamic intensity. Spice, seen through the transformative gaze of Comme des Garçons.
Notes: Black pepper, cedarwood, Akigalwood (patchouli, agarwood), tonka bean, musk
He – Here, a bit of faith is restored as Blackpepper resembles some of some old, good CdG creations. Zingy pepper, spices, warmth of patchouli and touch of signature synthetics. Not as dark as e.g. CdG Black, but still very good, a little bit abstract and avant-garde fragrance.
She – This one is at least nice all over and peppery at the beginning. Fresh, spicy note fades quickly into unnatural but very wearable, synthetic woody base. Still, if you call something pepper it should smell of pepper for more than 5 minutes.
ORTO PARISI SEMINALIS
Notes - as always undisclosed
He – Conceptual scent – I admire it a lot, but not sure I would be able to own the full bottle (bring me Boccanera, or Stercus though!). I enjoyed my sample while it lasted: Seminalis is almost linear – milky, nutty, buttery and sweaty at the same time. Can imagine it as rather polarizing scent, but isn’t it the main aim of artistic perfumery? To create emotions and challenge.
She – Not an angel, but on Angel’s side, wink wink, nudge nudge. It’s warm, musky, woody, ambery and overly sweet. Very well blended, to the point it loses any traces of character.
Notes - as always undisclosed
He – Nasomatto is not dead after all and that’s great news. Baraonda is addictive, almost drinkable with its boozy and gourmand accords. Warm, decadent, elegant and wrapping fragrance. Good job!
She – Jummy and sweet, a little bit too sweet for my taste. I blame buttery, milky, moist overtone, were it 10% lighter – this would be utter beauty with warm, whisky feeling and deep woods spine. Still, it’s very, very nice and comforting.
Quotes and pictures – press releases/fragrance houses. Samples provided by MOOD SCENT BAR, special thank you to Victor Kochetov.