In today’s Persefume “He says, she says” column by Jakub and Aleksandra we do focus on SANTI BURGAS Primal Waters (see our first announcement here) – the latest trilogy by Catalan perfumer and designer Santiago Burgas, created together with Givaudan‘s Master Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux, co-author of brand’s previous hit: Palindrome trilogy.

PRIMAL WATERS is a new trilogy of scents imagined by Santi Burgas, inspired by the origins of his brand of “parfums d’auteur”. They are the purest expression of high perfumery artistry, as they are blended using uncanny combinations of the best qualities of traditional natural raw materials joined by innovative new molecules that convey the utmost modernity. It is for the second time that Santi Burgas joins forces with perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux, and gives us a highly personal collection of three innovative and surprising fragrances. The names are three simple letters: A, N and T. They are at the heart of the name of the brand (SANTI) and also reflect the ANT as symbol and logo of the house and also, as a representation of an industrious, and civilized creature that lives naturally in absolute harmony with its peers.

Let’s review those three new scents – as often our opinions do differ, but that’s the whole charm of “He says, she says”!

A as in ADH “Aroma de Hormiguero”

The scent of the anthill. An imaginative depiction of the inner sanctum of ants, their organized society and their myriad twisted little tunnels. “A” is a complex, almost abstract perfume that blends derivatives of formic acid (formates… the term “formic” comes from the Latin word for “ant” formica as it is important in this insects’ metabolism) and an earthy mushroom accord reminiscent of lichen, which is the ants’ preferred food. Crisp fir balsam and green encounter vetiver, patchouli and oakmoss, spiked by geosmin and algae notes. A natural synergy of rich naturals and synthetics delivers a most singular perfume.

Notes: Naturally occurring formic acid derivatives (formates), algae accord, fresh mushroom accord, geosmin, galbanum, mastic tree resin, patchouli, oakmoss, fir balsam, vetiver, artemisia and petitgrain.

He – green citrus, but with so unique and amazing opening! Mineral and mushroomy, it reminds me of wet earth and soil. After some hours it becomes more classic and simply elegant. Definitely fragrance with a twist.

She – on me it smells mostly of citrus which is not included in the ingredients – well, the closest one is petitgrain, but still, what i feel is much harsher and brighter. Traces of raisins appear later in the development. Overall it’s not enough in the light of my expectations, which promised earthly delight. I find it refreshing, but perhaps on the verge of being abusive in terms of personal space.

N as in NYC “New York City”

The home of Mexican born Rodrigo Flores-Roux who willingly let Santi Burgas “borrow” his most personal, “for him only” blend. An exhilarating explosion of freshness originally created in 2008, which coincidentally is the year of the creation of the brand. Thus “N” is now adopted by Santi as a ten year anniversary celebration! “N” is a revision of an elegant “eau de cologne” theme built around extremely specialized citrus essences exclusively used by Givaudan perfumers. It fuses tradition with modernity as it displays these special citrus essences with a kinetic energy and a happy luminosity.

Notes: “Vert de bergamotte”, “vert de mandarine”, neroli, grapefruit, “brouts” absolute (orange flower water absolute), cardamom, ginger, coriander leaves, aglaia odorata flower, magnolia, patchouli, vetiver, Imperial sambac jasmine absolute from China and ambrette seed absolute from Martinica.

He – Private formula of Rodrigo Flores-Roux whose Tom Ford Private Blend Neroli Portofino became real classic. NYC seems to be its early sketch, more intense, perhaps also more green, retro and classy. Neroli here is both refreshing and deep which I find pretty unique. Cologne made in the sexy way.

She – the head contains the same, citrusy vibe as ADH, this time the main theme seems to be shifted towards neroli/ orange blossom – and it’s totally artificial here, little sparkly and buzzing. There’s slight mineral odour pervading through the heart of this perfume that makes me want to scratch it off my skin ASAP.

T as in TDM “Torroella de Montgrí”

Santi Burgas’ personal homage to the town where he lives and where the brand was born. A rich landscape of crops and fruit tree groves that has inspired artists, writers, musicians and creative minds of all kinds. An ancient castle, seated between a river and the sea, overlooks the village, its ancient walls bathed by the Ampurdan sun. TDM is a forceful herbal blend reminiscent of traditional remedies made from medicinal plants and is also an aromatic portrait of Torroella’s countryside and the many plants that thrive in it.

Notes: Wild chamomile, lavender, rosemary, flowering thyme, eucalyptus absolute, labdanum absolute, cistus essence, Mediterranean cypress, fir balsam, cedarwood and sage.

He – My love and favourite from the whole trio. It smells like islands full of herbs, gardens and olive trees. Incredibly complex and aromatic, its base soothes my senses.

She – well, finally something tolerable or even likable. It’s like early Autumn – you feel it in the air as ambiance rather than a real thing, nothing obvious, but still, it’s present in its transparency. I like the soft labdanum incense touch and general, cool lilac colour I feel in this composition. It’s whispering, calming and almost saint.

SANTI BURGAS Primal Waters are available as EdT 100ml (120 EUR) from the brand’s e-shop and authorized stockists, Sample Set is also available (25 EUR).

And here comes the worldwide draw!
Thanks to Santi Burgas’ generosity, we are offering set of three 3ml Primal Waters spray samples, but that’s not everything – the lucky winner will also receive luxurious press sample set of the recent limited Eau Dadette Perfume Attar (2ml of attar and its scented ceramic) – the bold floral/animalic composition with remarkable longevity.


Eau Dadette Perfume Attar in its full 20ml presentation

Which of the trio appeal to you the most? Have you tried earlier Santi Burgas perfumes? Just comment under this article to enter the draw (comments are being moderated and will appear after our approval). The winner will be chosen via random.org on 08 September 2019, notified via email and announced under this post day later. All international entries are welcomed. Please also follow our Facebook and Instagram pages not to miss the next draws, best luck!

Pictures and quotes – SANTI BURGAS. Samples received from the brands, opinions – our own.