In the latest entry to the Persefume‘s “He says, she says” hit series by Jakub and Aleksandra, we do focus on creations of SANTI BURGAS – fragrance house founded in 2008 by Catalan designer and perfumer Santiago Burgas. Mr Burgas is working on his scents himself, however in some cases he also used expertise of such renowned noses as Chris Maurice, Blanca Damau and also recently – Master Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux of Givaudan who co-signed the newest SANTI BURGAS Palindrome Collection – main star of today’s post.


Santiago Burgas

It is always pure pleasure to meet this young and charming SANTI BURGAS‘s Creator during Esxence and Pitti Fragranze fairs and follow evolving style and complexity of his fragrances. Lot has changed since the brand’s start which debuted with the first, signature SANTI BURGAS Limited Edition – elegant, aromatic combination of violet, patchouli, herbs and woods. Then came rather uncomplicated and linear LÔANT Collection (with delicate LÔJAZZ, beautiful rose of LÔROSE, green citrus of LÔBBIT, rather synthetic LÔANT, woody-chypre LOTREE and musky LÔMUSK) created to mix and match and LÔENCE, both boozy and woody fragrance with prominent patchouli and hint of frankincense.


Santi Burgas White Collection

The new direction is however fully visible in the White Collection – six incredibly well-made, mature and complex compositions for true niche lovers. Deep, long-lasting, they completely differ in style from the first releases, with Oud de Burgas as one of the most beasty ouds around, or amazing patchouli of Eau Dada. Finally, there comes the latest line: Palindrome Collection , composed by Santiago Burgas and Rodrigo Flores-Roux. Let’s review them and conclude our post with great prize draw!

PALINDROME I

Palindrome I is the first perfume conceived as a palindrome, as it can be discovered both backwards or forward. Just like reading a palindrome in both directions and without pausing, Palindrome I remains immutable: once the lighter citrus notes have subsided, the warm, incense-laden heart reveals itself like a protective mantra. Intoxicating balsams and ambery accents can then be felt, while the luminous opening surprisingly reappears, ushered by the robustly rich woodiness of Ambermax.

Notes: Sicilian lemon, Sicilian mandarin, cocoa beans, Somalian frankincense, tolu balsam, Ethiopian opoponax, Andalusian cistus, ambrette seeds, vanilla bean tincture, sandalwood & Venezuelan tonka beans.

He – Elegant, complex gourmand made in unusual way. Citrus accompanied with dark cocoa and hint of animalic elements. Palindrome I is full of class, it reminds me of great perfumes from the past (lot of Guerlains come to my mind – from vintages to masculine Instant). The longevity is truly impressive, the real compliments getter.

She – Yummy, hot and sweet, nicely lemony in the head. I have never tried citrus cocoa, but it mighthave tasted and smelt like that. Still, somewhat blunt, it does not develop the depth I would gladly meet here.

PALINDROME II

Palindrome II works as a palindrome in a different way. This fragrance revolves around a solid and powerful woody axis of patchouli, which can be felt from the first to the last stages of its evolution. A warm and spicy touch of black pepper, cardamom and ginger enhance the heart notes. Still shining because of a resilient sparkle of Calabrian bergamot. Unexpected nuances of angelica roots, intoxicating sugar cane and leather accords complete the picture.

Notes: Calabrian bergamot, angelica roots, sugar cane, white and black pepper, Nigerian ginger, Ceylonese cardamom, Castoreum, Chinese osmanthus, Maltese labdanum, cinnamon tree leaves, leather accord, patchouli & Mexican vanilla beans.

He – Very dark and conceptual – animalic and industrial at the same time. Smells like spices put into the melting metal. Great for those who love the touch of avant-garde.

She – More demanding the the first one, but – perhaps that is the reason – deeper than that. Very animalic during the initial blast, it retains castoreum vibe on non-offensive, almost subliminal level. The sharpness of all sorts of powdered spices – pepper, cinnamon and ginger amongst others – catches me as little of-beat, or perhaps rather vintage in its core.

PALINDROME III

Palindrome III, an overflowing and layered composition inspired by osmanthus, reveals itself as heightened delight to the senses. Osmanthus is a small flowering tree of Chinese origin that blooms explosively, its tiny yellow flowers filling the air with a delicate but opulent floral and fruity aroma reminiscent of apricots. Palindrome III uses a unique combination of two radically different osmanthus absolute that deliver a contrasting interplay between joyful and colorful fruity accents and darker, richer and more animalic and leathery notes. This olfactory game sways back and forth between light and darkness, illuminating itself with sparkling mandarin, Jamaican rum and davana, before diving into the shadows of an overdose of cistus labdanum, poplar sapling absolute and exta-pure patchouli. A surprising touch of black olive adds a haunting element to the composition, rounded off with elegant rose essence from Bulgaria.

Notes: Mandarin, black olive, osmanthus flowers, osmanthus absolutes, labdanum, poplar buds, Jamaican rum absolute, Bulgarian rose, patchouli, artemesia & davana.

He – Newest addition to the series which for me does not have anything in common with first two Palindromes. I can imagine it would be very polarizing perfume (edit: it is, see Aleksandra’s words below), but yet I like it. It is plasticky sweet, but in a fun, neo-pop way. Disco, bubblegum and glitter!

She – There’s something unpleasantly disturbing about the third iteration of Palindrome – the more I try the more it smells of cheap, mainstream floral oriental. First time I smelt it I managed to invent some kind of dark and sober narcissus there – but I no longer can, the chemical, candy note is omnipresent and long lasting. A misunderstanding of a perfume.

Last, but not least – we have generous worldwide giveaway courtesy of SANTI BURGAS! The first winner will get Discovery Kits of White Collection and Palindromes (9 x 3ml sprays in total) plus limited, online-exclusive Lemon Chalk – Perfumed Soap Bar which really got us addicted! The second winner will receive trio of Palindrome 3ml spray samples.


Santi Burgas Lemon Chalk

To win, please comment under this post telling us which SANTI BURGAS scent appeals to you the most. Comments are moderated and will appear after our approval. We will announce winners on the 4th of May under this post, so do not forget to check the results! Best luck!

Samples by SANTI BURGAS. Opinions – our own.