Second edition of weekly column: “He says, she says”! He: Jakub and She: Aleksandra of Persefume — two people, two genders, two opinions, both valuable, both sincere. Sometimes similar, sometimes contrasting — we test without checking each other’s impressions. Choose what fits you better. Write your own part in comments.
This time: no main theme, just different creations and quite recent (2014) launches.


Amouage Sunshine Woman
Notes: Black currant, Almond, Davana, Osmanthus, Jasmine, Magnolia, Vanilla, Juniper, Patchouli, Papyrus, Blond tobacco.

He — Perfume to either love or hate, for me it is quite unique scent which is already a big advantage. Magnolias, almonds, musk and exotic note of ripe, almost even fermented fruits. Summery and indeed sunny feeling plus very long lasting effect which is rather typical for the brand. Kudos to Amouage for the further departure from former style, quite curious about upcoming masculine Sunshine edition.

She — it seems to be one of those scents you either love or hate. For me it’s just redundant, it could just never exist. I expect much from Christopher Chong and I usually get even more, but no luck this time. I don’t find glare and glamour in this perfume as some people do — first it smells of artificial peach and then turns into a mixture of almonds and overripe fruit. There is a molecule which, I am afraid, is the core of this composition, and its longevity is not an advantage here. My associations with sunshine are somewhat different.


Maison Francis Kurkdjian A La Rose
Notes: Damascena Rose, Bergamot, Orange, Violet, Magnolia blossom, Cedar wood, Musk, Centifolia Rose

He — Francis Kurkdjian can create good roses which was already proven in Oud Moods line and Lumiere Noire duo (not to mention creations for other brands), however this rose has completely other character. It is fresh, dewy and green, with tiny hint of woods and citrus. Shy, sublime, quite mainstream. The fact that it was firstly launched on the Asian market is not really surprising as its gentle nature totally appeals to local tastes.

She — I had some issues with Kurkdjian recently, but this one is a graceful dodge, a stroke on my hair, a shy smile and a gaze asking “are you mad at me?”, a soft whisper of “sorry”. I am totally helpless against such things and I forgive. This rose is exceptionally charming, not very candy-like, rather sour than dry, a bit champaigne-y, having a beautiful, green backbone, supple and vibrating like a bass string. Yes, it’s a fully developed mainstream, but spot-on in Spring and having very good quality. If you still have problems wearing rose give this a try, it should go easy.


Xerjoff Casamorati Gran Ballo
Notes: Berries, Tangerine, Honeysuckle, Gardenia, Jasmine, Ambergris, Caramel, Vanilla, Sandalwood

He — Another inspiration by well known selective themes, but as always in Xerjoff’s case with much more refined effect. Rather feminine and classic composition of white flowers with gourmand background. Charming, although not too original. I liked recent Casamorati Dama Bianca – and I like Gran Ballo as well.

She — a-n-other story about redundant perfumes. Nobody needs them. White flowers soaked in vanilla pudding, move along, nothing to see here.


M.Micallef Ananda Dolce
Notes: Almond, Peach, Almond Blossom, White Flowers, Ambergris, Tonka Bean, White Musk

He — This is definitely feminine scent with juicy peaches, overdose of fluffy, creamy vanilla and lot of almonds. Completely not my target, but appreciate high quality and longevity of this quite mature creation.

She — contrary to the perfume mentioned above, this one at least has some character, albeit vicious. A super-massive, hydroponic peach, fruits of this size do not grow naturally — there is no flavour to fill the whole thing, so everything is nastily diluted, and diluted vanilla is not something you want to spend your precarious money on. Yes, it is even worse than Sushine, what fun.

Perris Monte Carlo Ylang-Ylang Nosy Be
Notes: Ylang-Ylang, Lemon, Grapefruit, Cardamom, Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Damask Rose, Ambergris, Labdanum (Rockrose), Vetiver, Cedarwood, Floral Notes, Vanilla

He — Belonging to line inspired by Nosy Be island and what a great scent! Not as tropical as suggested in press materials, but so vibrating! Mix of citrus, aromatic cardamom, white flowers, I can easily smell yummy rose jam effect for hours, well done!

She — ylang-ylang is a particular creature: you don’t need to do much to achieve a spectacular effect, as a matter of fact you just should let it sound the way it sounds. And that’s what is done in this composition. The spirit of Nosy Be flowers is acetate at first, reminiscent of jasmine, but then it settles down and peacefully spreads the perfectly cut fan of flowery and spicy notes. I do not see art in it, but a good craft is worth supporting. And they didn’t spoil anything this time.

Perris Monte Carlo– Patchouli Nosy Be
Notes: Patchouli, Pepper Berries, Cocoa, Labdanum (Rockrose), Vanilla, Cedarwood, Sandalwood

He — Patchouli is definitely more dull than the other Nosy Be. Very shy, woody and almost diluted note (I can almost smell ISO E-Super, or perhaps is pepper-cypruss combo?). It gradually warms up, but anyway, I am quite disappointed.

She — It’s really hard to make a patchouli scent I do not like, as I am a great fan of this musicians’ and junkies’ aroma. What I particularly love about patchouli is its ability to perform one-of-a-kind evolutions on person’s skin. Alas, Perris Monte Carlo spoiled the unspoilable. I read patchouli never grew on the Nosy Be Island before – and for a reason! Apparently the environment is not meant for it. It’s true, patchouli in Nosy Be is dry, crackling and sweet. There is not enough of rain, dirt, earth and nostalgia which – to me – make patchouli what it really is.

Pictures: brands’ press materials and visuals. Samples received from Perfumery Quality

Jakub (left) and Aleksandra (right)—photo edit by Jakub Grabarczyk Photo+Retouch
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