In today’s Persefume “He says, she says” by Jakub and Aleksandra, we do cover Rançon – the new Italian fragrance house which debuted at Esxence 2018 with three compositions signed by talented perfumer Luca Maffei of Atelier Fragranze Milano.
Rançon is the project of designer Massimiliano Minorini with 25 years of experience in the beauty sector. New brand has been directly inspired by Charles Baudelaire’s “The Flowers of Evil”.


Massimo Minorini

Between anger and love,
The art of a ransom
A creative project inspired by Charles Baudelaire’s work

“les fleurs du mal” (the flowers of evil).
a creative work that unfolds through the creation of niche fragrances.

Man, with which to pay his ransom,
has two fields of deep rich earth,
which he must dig and bring to birth,
with the iron blade of reason.
to obtain the smallest rose,(…)
a few ears of wheat(…),
one is art: love is the other.

The first Rançon is dedicated to three familiar aromas: rose, violet and tuberose blended to create new, unexpected harmonies


Rançon fragrances are available in Eau de Parfum, Extrait and scented candle versions

Let’s talk more about those novelties:

ROSE NARCOTIQUE

Top notes: Bergamot, calamus, cumin, costus
Middle notes: Moroccan Rose absolute, brown agarwood, styrax
Base notes:: Guaiac wod, patchouli, Ambrinol, Animalis accord

He – Opulent Morrocan rose with animalic and spicy undertones. Civet, oud, cumin – all checked. For me it shares few similarities with Olibere Dangerous Rose – another upcoming Luca Maffei’s creation. It is less fruity than Olibere and bit more tamed. Anyway, very solid launch, must-check for oriental roses lovers.

She – One of the strong, bold roses of recent times, dewy, sweet and deep carmine, evoking the colour of blood. Cumin note makes it a bit unsetling, stirring unstable or dirty memories, things pushed out of your consciousness. An oriental type, again, not for the faint of the heart.

VIOLETTE LYSERGIQUE

Top notes: Bergamot, lime, rhubarb essence
Middle notes: Black violet, iris, rose, heliotrope
Base notes:: Ambroxan, Timbersilk, Muscone Laevo molecules

He – Bold and quite classic violet-iris combo with the twist. Powdery, but with some industrial, leathery feel, perhaps due to synthetic molecules in the base. Interesting.

She – A very straight ahead and assertive soliflore violet with a strong iris-heliotrope boost making it even more earthy, but also sweet. Surprisingly acetate-like in the head, I was looking for some ylang or jasmine in the notes but didn’t find any. If you like violets and a bold statements, this one might be for you, as it is definitively NOT an ephemeral, fairy creature.

TUBEREUSE MALEFIQUE

Top notes: Bergamot, petit grain
Middle notes: Tuberose absolute, ylang-ylang, karmawood, amber xtreme
Base notes:: Java Vetiver, cabreuva, civet, muscarome

He – Sweet, narcotic tuberose with gourmand undertones. Bold, linear, perfect for femmes fatales. Another must-try for lovers of this lush flower.

She – To make a tuberose scent which is not all about tuberose is a very intricate and delicate thing, as the line between “enough” and “too much” is a very thin one indeed. So, if the creator wanted to cross it to make it a soliflore – the success is obvious here. I personally prefer tuberose perfumes that allow to add something more to the mix, but if you like the flower, you’ll easily find it here, properly rubbery and moist. The list of ingredients looks fabulous, but the tubreose monster has eaten them all, at least on my skin.

His verdict: I am following all Luca Maffei’s creations – and here he did a great job again. However, Rançon is not the most original entry out there, I can’t detect Baudelaire’s real spirit here. But perhaps we need such classics after all?

Her verdict: Overall it’s a coherent, daring line, although it does not create any added value. There’s also a strange, oily-mineral, synthetic note pervading each composition, especialy in the heart – perhaps some kind of musk? Idk, still, the perfumes are solid and worth testing.

Rançon fragrances are available in Eau de Parfum 100ml with bulb atomizer, Perfume Concentrate (Extrait) 50ml and scented candle versions. Brand should announce sales points and e-commerce soon.

Samples (we have tested EdP versions) and materials by Rançon, opinions – our own.