The 17th edition of our “He says, she says” column. He: Jakub and She: Aleksandra of Persefume — two people, two genders, two opinions, both valuable, both sincere. Sometimes similar, sometimes contrasting — we test without checking each other’s impressions. Choose what fits you better. Write your own part in comments.
This time we are focusing on Parfums Dusita – new Parisian perfume house founded by Pissara Umavijani who took the niche market by storm with her three debut creations: Issara, Melodie d’Amour and Oudh Infini.
Jakub: I have met Pissara during Esxence 2016 when she actually contacted Persefume before the event seeing us on the Esxence’s Partners list. At her stand we had truly fascinating chat about artistic perfumery – what a charming and gorgeous person! Smelling Oudh Infini first, I already knew that new star is born! During our chat I also found out that Pissara is daughter of famous Thai modern poet, the late Montri Umavijani and Dusita‘s creations are real oflactory homage to his heritage. Actually, ‘Dusita’ in Siamese belief is a paradise of pure delight – such a perfect name for this new Maison.
Pissara Umavijani – portrait exclusively for Persefume
Pissara Umavijani, the founder of Parfums Dusita, grew up in Thailand. A young artist with a passion for fragrances, she began creating her own perfumes. Blending rare, precious scents Ploi dreamt of opening her own ‘maison de parfum’ in France,the home of classic fragrances. In 2011 Ploi moved to Paris bringing her creations and her dream. Collaborating with a leading fragrance laboratory in Grasse, she has refined and produced the first three exclusive perfumes from Parfums Dusita, Paris. France’s newest Maison de Haute Parfumerie.
At the moment Parfums Dusita offers three opulent Extraits de Parfum: Issara evoking inner freedom and tranquility, Melodie d’Amour – symbol of magicial bliss of love and euphoric Oudh Infini. All those perfumes have already received extremely positive, rave reviews from the major critics and bloggers – no wonder, they are masterfully crafted from the highest quality raw materials, long-lasting and referring to classic French perfumery, yet redefining it with modern approach and touch of Pissara’s (or simply – Ploi) Asian chic. Ms Umavijani also knows the magic of social media – being directly involved with her customers already gave her significant fanbase. This is again where past meets current trends.
Let us tell you a bit of Dusita‘s initial releases:
A love song with a unique Floral essence – love absolute ! Inspired by the feelings of bliss true love evokes. An unforgettable, sweet floral harmony, redolent with a unique, pure fragrance of gentle seduction.
At the Top : The fresh, pure scent of Gardenia, romantic Tuberoses, and a blissful blend of 150 varieties of white flowers enhanced by the rich, golden notes of Wild Honey.
The Heart : A creamy, poetic Peach , sweet Italian Broom flower, and the green sensuality of Lily of the Valley, all lovingly balanced by the rich nocturnal refrain of Indian Jasmine.
Base Notes : An exquisite new accord of soft, soothing Cedarwood Oil with the gentle staying power of irresistable Musk.
He – Tribute to white flowers – monumental, yet airy and moving. Incredibly complex – it reminds me many of vintage creations (actually, Pissara is devoted vintage perfumes collector), though its elements tell more about hope and future instead of just staying in the past. Sweet Jasmine, creamy Gardenia, indolic Tuberose, touch of thick honey, sunny fruits – all those elements are perfectly blended creating unified, breathtaking, intoxicating and rich effect. Melodie d’Amour, despite its mostly floral ingredients, is perfectly unisex, versatile and blooms during recent heatwaves. Chapeau bas!
She – This one is a huge soliflore, the kind I like the best when it’s hot, sunny and windy. If the air is still, the perfumes like this one can grow too big and overwhelm the bearer (I wonder how to decompose the English word “flower” to make it huge – perhaps I should emphasise the LOW part of a fLOWer to emphasise that some flowers speak with bass voice). But wind – wind is doing marvels with this perfume factory, receiving the pieces of scent smoothly and delivering them to the rest of the world in a constant, sometimes abrupt manner. I feel this perfume as huge sheets of white sweetness and thickness and creaminess. If someone – for example the wind – peels me of them one by one – it feels like a great fun. But be very careful, it is extremely easy to overdose, especially in concentrated splash – it is much better to spray it from afar and enter the well diffused mist of this perfume. If you do that, you’ll have the chance to feel some less prominent notes like honey or broom which really make this scent rich and gorgeous.
A one of a kind fresh Fougère fragrance for the free and independent spirit – the scent with a sense for inner freedom. A fabulous perfume evoking fresh summer mornings, lush green fields, an invigorating breeze blowing through the pines.
At the Top: Brisk, fresh green Pine stirs the senses and blends joyfully with subtle, soft herbal notes for a walk in nature!
The Heart : A rousing Coumarin accord delivers the pure country-fresh fragrance of new-mown hay, with rich balsamic notes of the forest from Vertiver Bourbon, and the intimately mellow scent of Sylvester Pine Leaf.
Base Notes : Played by a trio of spontaneous, earthy aromas — magical Musk, a woody Oakmoss and an extremely rare, rich natural Ambergris.
He – Issara can be described as Fougère, but forget about Neo-fougère genre. It is another classic approach, perfect both for gentlemen and free-spirited ladies. Green, woody and herbal elements meet musk and gorgeous smooth tobacco. Easy to wear, easy to enjoy, easy to impress.
She – I think Issara is the easiest, the most timid of the three; a perfume of huge fields of coumarin and musk. It feels like end of summer which turns out to be endless. Everything has grown and ripened, and in this very moment, when all the fruits are ready to fall from trees, when wheat and barley are harvested – time stands still. Everything is ended but we will never die. It also means that nothing will be ever born again. So there’s a sense of calmness to it, but also a sense of sweet, longing sadness.
An opulent and irresistible new Oudh accord with a rich, rare and exhilarating fragrance. Inspired by the mystery of exotic adventure and discovery – resonant with a sensual Rose de Mai. Elegantly alluring , richly sophisticated.
At the Top: A unique blend of rich Oude Palao from Laos & precious, alluring Rose de Mai, balanced by the sweetness of Orange Flower Blossom from Tunisia
The Heart : Calm, warm, balsamic notes of slowly diffusing Siamese Benzoin blend perfectly with the sensual opulence of Indian Sandalwood from Mysore.
Base Notes: Long lasting harmony with exclusive Vanilla Absolute from Madagascar, a fabulously rich & rare note of Musk and the exciting sensuality of Civet.
He – I love and own many ouds, so no wonder it was the first Dusita’s creation I tried. Well, observing current agarwood trends I thought that everything was already said and done. But luckily I was proven wrong: Oudh Infini is one of best ouds around, incredibily opulent, dangerously animalic. It blends beasty and cheesy aspects of oud with roses, vanilla and woods. This composition creates emotions, revives imagination – yes, it does sound heavy, but somehow you can easily wear it – as I do, always turning heads around. Thank for giving us this gem, Pissara – if you like agarwoods as I do, you just simply need to test it!
She – Well, that is what I call a true oud. It is not pretty, it is not even nice. But it is beautiful. The core of this beauty is being true – to oneself, to some virtues, to nature of the very material. It will surely make some people flee in panic – the first few notes sound like a roar of a rare beast, and you literally feel you have no idea of what comes next. It definitely has a killing potential. But blessed are those of brave heart who endure their difficult emotions. There comes the next theme of the composition, far more feminine, or, shall I say, human. Flowers bloom in the middle of a deep, southern night, and create a soothing juxtaposition to the civet note, vibrating on the edge of sensation. Rose stands out, bright, sharp and vivid. It will dominate this perfume to the very end, casting ruby and orange jewels at random, becoming more round and delicate with age. The longevity is great and you should give it a try, if you like bold, woody-rose perfumes with a hint of animalic power within.
Luxury, limited handmade coffret of three Dusita extraits
Pissara’s two upcoming creations which we have already tested are called Le Sillage Blanc and La Douceur de Siam (Aleksandra: very flowery rendition of Siam benzoe with a touch of powder. Seems nicely luxurious, wonderful for posh evenings and a little black dress), yet we will focus more on them closer to the December launch.
All three creations are already available on Parfums Dusita webpage as Extraits de Parfum 50ml (295 EUR for Issara and Melodie d’Amour, 395 EUR for Oudh Infini). You can also order great sample sets via page’s contact form (there is currently small waiting list).
Or – thanks to Pissara’s generous offer, you can also win one of three sample boxes with three 5ml atomizers of Melodie d’Amour, Issara and Oudh Infini! Just simply comment under this post (posts are moderated, will appear after approval), please perhaps also take a moment to check and like both Persefume and Parfums Dusita Facebook pages. This worldwide draw is open until 14th of August, with winners to be announced under this post. Good luck from Persefume and Dusita!
Pictures and quotes via Dusita Parfums- thank you!
Jakub (left) and Aleksandra (right)—photo edit by Jakub Grabarczyk Photography. All rights reserved.