The 16th edition of our “He says, she says” column. He: Jakub and She: Aleksandra of Persefume — two people, two genders, two opinions, both valuable, both sincere. Sometimes similar, sometimes contrasting — we test without checking each other’s impressions. Choose what fits you better. Write your own part in comments.
In this post we do focus on Olibere Parfums – Parisian house founded in 2015 by Marjorie Olibere – traveller, previously journalist and TV producer (you can read about the brand’s story in our separate article). Olibere Paris‘ creations inspired by love, movies, travel and sheer chance have been composed by two Master Perfumers: Bertrand Duchaufour (three fragrances) and Amélie Bourgeois of Flair Paris (for now two scents) and are presented in bottle resembling shape of camera super 8.
Current creations pay hommage to the iconic travel destinations – Bali Island, Rome, Malaysia, or Istanbul – let’s review them one by one. Starting from three by Bertrand Duchaufour:
ESCAPADE À BYZANCE
Istanbul, a couple strolls through the city’s back-streets. At the local bazaar, a sensation of enveloping warmth is procured by a bouquet of spiced top notes : Cardamom, Ginger, Cinnamon, Saffron and Clove. The Bosphorus. The senses are illuminated by middle notes of fresh Grapefruit and juicy Pomegranate. An Etesian breeze caresses the city. An oriental dancer appears like a mirage. She is unsettling and intoxicating, alongside the fumes of Apple shisha and sustained notes of Leather. The senses are lifted with the birth of new-found passion. A rich and opulent fragrance.
Top Notes: Black Pepper, Cinnamon, Saffron, Ginger, Cumin, Citrus
Heart Notes: Cypress, Carnation, Incense
Base Notes: Heliotrope, Vanilla, Benzoin, Musks, Amber, Patchouli, Vetiver, Atlas Cedar
He – Dusty, dry, earthy and spicy Oriental which can indeed evoke the feel of Turkish bazaars. Memorable, long-lasting, rather linear creation in the typical Duchaufour’s style – though this scent differs a lot from his other, more fruity take on the theme – L’Artisan Traversee du Bosphore. Lovers of Serge Lutens Chergui should give it a try.
She – Rich and oriental, this scent sends me back to the 80s, when I first met perfumes as a child. They were a unique phenomenon in my poor, deprived world of deformed-communist Poland, shining with a golden light of unimaginable luxury. The afterglow of this feeling still resides in me and rarely finds the way out, when some delicate string is pulled by the invisible hand of a precious ingredient. Escapade a Byzance seems like one of the many orientals, quite earthy and watery at the beginning (as if iris were involved in the making), then heavy and sweet on the surface, YET, there is something unusual at the fond of it, a herbal, cool note, as if I, in the middle of Mediterranean, rocky meadow, found a cave, shallow but shadowy enough to make a difference.
Is it a dream, a distant memory, or reality itself? Begin by letting yourself go, fall under the spell of the alluring top notes: juicy Mango and Passion fruit. Slowly regain your senses thanks to vibrant fresh Spices; very luminous top notes of Peruvian Pepper and subtly rooty green Curcuma form a perfect accompaniment for Tuberose. Delve deeper into the mystery… This full-bodied, seductive and opulent Tuberose’s floral facets are boosted by Peony, Geranium and soft Wooded base notes. Finally, succumb to the white sensuality of the Musk and Sandalwood forming the base notes. Their sweetness is finally revealed by a hint of honey.
Top Notes: Juniper, Curcuma, Peruvian Pepper, Bergamot, Passion fruit
Heart Notes: Beeswax, Cloves, Gardenia, Tuberose, Ylang ylang, Ozone
Base Notes: Heliotrope, Vanilla, Benzoin, Musks, Amber, Patchouli, Vetiver, Atlas Cedar
He – First part of Bali Island tribute. Unusual and exotic one – bold, green white floral, yet with steamed rice note and sweaty elements, perhaps due to beeswax, heliotrope and gourmand notes combination. Primordial aura of nature not touched by modern civilzation.
She – It’s green and watery and milky at the same time. Feels like a lush, thick, green foam gaining volume in a rapid way. Seems relaxed and domesticated, but make no mistake: its ability to expand makes it an extremely dangerous creature on skin. Respect it or it’ll eat you.
Among the top notes, the milky, aqueous freshness of Bamboo sap and Sandalwood, reminiscent of Asia. Peppery spices convey a nascent passion. Transparent floral notes delicately envelop the nose. Full-bodied Orchid petal, soft Jasmin, milky green Sambac. The fragrance ’ s heart is utterly harmonious. Then comes the caressing sensuality of the soft, subtly musky base notes. A hint of Myrrh and Vetiver perfects this essence of Bali.
Top Notes: Bamboo Sap, Cardamom, Ginger, Cinnamon, Cumin
Heart Notes: Rose, Geranium, Orchid, Sambac Jasmin, Aqueous Notes
Base Notes: Sandalwood, Musk, Myrrh, Heliotrope, Vetiver
He – This second Bali-inspired scent is the pleasant one – green, partly aquatic, summery and joyful. Prominent bamboo note, hint of spices, delicate flowers – ethereal, welcoming to re-apply to bring back that carefree, holiday feeling.
She – Balinesque is probably the easiest of the five, light and sunny. Nothing really stands out, which actually makes this perfume stand out among niche concepts, usually concentrated on one note, one topic, one thought. The overall idea here seemed of course to be a paradise-on-earth one, and the making is abstract enough to call it a close shot. I have this feeling that in the world caught between generic, boring and usually sticky-sweet mainstream, and boring, soli-note and usually over-contrived niche perfumes really nobody smells like that. So I will.
and moving to two creations by Amélie Bourgeois:
A composition built around an intoxicating and fiery accord of red wine and Oud. “Midnight Spirit” embodies the sheer excitement of meeting someone new. Its head notes are formed of effervescent, jubilant citrus: Italian Lemon, Sweet Lime and Grapefruit. Syrupy middle notes are built around Red Wine, Palmarosa and Davana. Powerful wooded base notes of Vetiver, Virginia Cedar and amber Woods.
Top Notes: Basil, Tarragon, Lemon, Sweet Lime, Grapefruit, Cardamom
Heart Notes: Coriander, Red Wine, Palmarosa, Davana, Oud
Base Notes: Virginia Cedar, Violet and Violet Leaf, Vetiver, Hay, Labdanum
He – Apart of Escapade a Byzance, it is my other favourite of the line. Marketed as ultimate going-out scent it combines spicy and citrusy notes with interesting wine/davana accord, hint of incense and oud. However, two other ingredients: cedar and vetiver play the most important role giving it sharp, dry and dynamic character. Overall – rather unique composition proving the talent of Amélie Bourgeois. And my discovery – smells much more intense in summer, on the warm skin.
She – Another successful composition, this time all about cedar, and a quite interesting rendition of it: it seems as the wood grows somewhere near Seattle, where it rains so much it becomes sour. It may sound strange or even horrible, so note this: there’s just a drop of this acid there, and that’s quite enough to lift this perfume from the ocean of generic, pencil cedars. The addition of coriander and violet – what an unexpected couple! – makes it even more interesting. I also feel a hint of incense, cold and damp, which almost reminds me of all “ocean breezes” in perfumes I despise so much. But again: it’s not enough to spoil it, and quite enough to make me think, what I actually feel.
IL MIO SEGRETO
A subtle and charming fragrance with fresh and zesty top notes : Grapefruit zest and Italian lemon recall the sweet warmth of the Italian summer. Then, its floral heart unfolds as sensual Jasmin mingles with mouth-watering sweet and spiced Peach. Base notes of iris blend with Mimosa, creating a powdered duo. Delectable Green Vanilla, soft Benzoin and precious Woods form a sensual, full-bodied alchemy…For even greater seduction.
Top Notes: Italian Bergamot, Grapefruit, Osmanthus
Heart Notes: Jasmin, Ylang ylang, Spiced peach, Cardamom
Base Notes: Benzoin, Iris, Mimosa, Green Vanilla, Precious Woods
He – So sunny, optimistic, yet sensual powdery floral full of bright citrus, peach and blooming, subtle white florals. Despite bit feminine description, as the other compositions, it is fully unisex – smelled it on masculine skin and it worked magic.
She – This very much remind me of Dior Poison, a mixture of a classic and long lost green beauty, Tendre Poison. There’s something pleasantly invigorating in this perfume: a vivid breath of flowers and spices, unfurling abruptly, swirling and running, almost like a child with its unending energy. On the other hand there’s nothing childish in the composition, no sugary or fruity notes – it is voluptuous on the brink of being dangerous, and yes, poisonous. Inedible and tempting, somehow distant, this is the ultimate vamp scent. Bravo!
All Olibere Parfums creations are pleasant, casual scents which for many can be great entry point into the niche world. Do not expect sillage monsters, yet their exotic character welcomes you to enjoy them. Bravo for accessible prices (98 EUR for 50ml EdP, 145 EUR for 100ml), Olibere E-Shop also offers great sampling kit with five 2ml EdP sprayers . We can already reveal that the sixth, more challenging composition, also by Amélie Bourgeois will be launched during upcoming Pitti Fragranze, along with Milanese Fragrance In Motion Awards – more on this novelty soon on Persefume.
Thanks to Maison Olibere, we have worldwide draw for one Sample Set, just post a comment under this post (posts are moderated and appear after their approval by admins). Like both Persefume and Olibere FB pages (in fact, Olibere hosts there monthly Olibere Escapade photo contest) to double your chances. Draw ends on 23 July 2016. Good luck!
Pictures and quotes via Olibere Parfums – merci.
Jakub (left) and Aleksandra (right)—photo edit by Jakub Grabarczyk Photography. All rights reserved.