Today in Persefume‘s “He says, she says” by Jakub and Aleksandra: review of all eight fragrances by Nomenclature – New York brand founded by Karl Bradl of Aedes de Venustas and designer Carlos Quintero.

Nomenclature Founders: Carlos Quintero (left) and Karl Bradl (right)

Nomenclature creations combine synthetic, iconic molecules with naturals – results are often truly creative and surprising – let’s go together through this interesting, innovative range!

Nomenclature celebrates design in perfume chemistry by showcasing today’s most inspiring, exclusive molecules—so exclusive that some, known as “captives,” are zealously guarded by fragrance companies.

ADR_ETT – by perfumer Frank Voekl

Notes: Helvetolide® molecule (Musk), pink pepper, iris, amber gris, vanilla, tonka bean

He – fluffy cloud of musky iris. Comforting skinscent which just makes you feel good.

She – a silk white shirt, dry, dry, dry, warm and cozy, disappearing and appearing again like the sound of bells from the distance, static but electrifying. Invisible particles of iris create the mist letting this scent to take shape – and flat away again, before you recognise the pattern. Wonderful musk molecule!

EFFLOR_ESCEE – by perfumer Frank Voekl

Notes: Paradisone® molecule (citrus floral), neroli, tuberose, bergamot, citrus, osmanthus

He – warmth of citruses combined with touch of green and white florals. Another mood-booster.

She – a vivid and cytrusy orange flower, happy as late-winter hollydays in Catalonia, where the flowers bloom at the end of February, when the winter is still grim in my country. And it really doesn’t matter that orange trees are not in bloom – you just feel they will be, soon. Joyous scent, easy to wear and fall in love with. Favourite of the bunch.

HOLY_WOOD – by perfumer Frank Voekl

Notes: Clearwood® (wood floral) molecule, pink pepper SFE, Bulgarian rose, jasmin Sambac, suede, sandalwood

He – opulent Arabic theme presented in the modern way. Rose, saffron, warmth of woods and patchouli. Smells rich and proud.

She – piercing and bright as the stars and glitters of the great cinema. Pink, proud rose and white patchouli create somewhat ephemeral but strong beauty, her neck long, her skin immaculate and blurred. Pink peppers borrow somoe much needed contrast, et voila. It almost clears the nose like some essential oil bath.

IRI_DEL – by perfumer Patricia Choux

Notes: Iris aldehyde, wood, ambrette, bergamot, amber

He – again, it is all about iris, but in its core form. Warm, dense. I root for it!

She – it sits on the skin in a funny way, in two phases, leaving droplets of the heavier ingredients lasting longer on the surface. Luckly for me I do not detect any cucumber or watery notes – only iris, very dry, almost sour, but not rotten. It is powdery enough to feel elegant, but in a very understated, scandinavian way. An iris note to love, unreciprocated.

LUMEN_ESCE by perfumer Frank Voekl

Notes: Violettyne® molecule, violet leaves, freesia, jasmin Sambac, Bulgarian rose, bergamot, Patchouli Prisma

He – elegant, cold, paradise-like effect. Mix of fruits, pepper and flowers reminds somehow reminds me of the classic Lauder’s Pleasures. Very well-done.

She – described as a violet perfume it really is a bouquet of powdered freesias sprinkled with pear juice. I love how it manages to be the shape and the background simultaneously. This multi-time-dimensionality makes it a joy to wear even if you aren’t particularily fond of florals.

ORB_ITAL – by perfumer Patricia Choux

Notes: Orbitone® (wood amber) molecule, CO2, pepper, rhubarb, violet, sandalwood, olibanum

He – Woody, musky, with hint of violet. Very floating on my skin.

She – as always with Iso E Super concoctions I am anosmic to some parts of this perfume. First I don’t detect it at all, then harsh pine comes out of the resin shadows. And nothing more, I’m afraid. And as I’m reading the beautiful description, I admit I’d love to love it but I fail to feel it.

PARA_ISO by perfumer Frank Voekl

Notes: Quincester® molecule, green notes, fruity notes, lily of the valley, white tea, jasmine, iris, cedarwood

He – flowery, green, but something does not click here for me, perhaps due to its somehow mainstream floral note.

She – I know it was supposed to be a green paradise with the innocence of lilly-of-the-valey in avantgarde, but they added some hexenyl or hexenol-3-cis or something similar to the mix, and its oily note seems strangely out of place here – now we have a paradise that smells like a distant deep fryer. Which is quite funny when I consider it. Heaven for a potato lover like me! Still, not something I would wear.

SHI_SO – by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour

Notes: Glycolierral® molecule (green), shiso, ivy leaf, cardamom, spearmint, verbena, blackcurrnt

He – I love it! Green and at the same time milky. Warm, yet refreshing. Another example of Bertrand Duchaufour’s talent.

She – that’s one heavy leaf, blade-like and quick to cut. All shades of green served in minimalist manner, dry but juicy. I would wear it during hot flashes.

Nomenclature fragrances are available as Eaux de Parfum 100ml, 165 USD RPP from Aedes website and authorized worldwide stockists.

Pictures, samples and quotes by Nomenclature. Opinions – our own.