In today’s Persefume “He says, she says” by Jakub and Aleksandra we do cover Noème Paris – the new perfume house by Majda Bekkali who also debuts as the perfumer of the brand.

Our Perfume house takes its name from the philosophical concept Noème which designates what exists outside of human consciousness, out of sight. Nature is double-bottomed, labyrinthine and does not need our eyes to exist. Our perfumes celebrate the eternal and unalterable secret of things. They are imaginary and whimsical and throw an indiscreet eye (a nose?) behind the big natural curtain. We borrowed from the Incas the “eye of God” to make it our emblem. It allowed them to access the hidden meaning of the world. We have adopted the Orobouros as the acronym for our house. Shared by several ancient civilizations, it symbolizes time and eternal renewal.
“Imagination is more important than knowledge“ Albert Einstein


Majda Bekkali

Noème has launched last year with five Eaux de Parfum – let’s review them below:

ABYSSE

Leaning to the wells of the great dizziness, flush with a perfume of abyss. An endless story, a bottomless faith. From darkness comes an imperious perfume, black, orange, abstract.

Top note: Davana, Nutmeg, Timbersilk (salty accord)
Heart: Cyclamen, Hawthorn, Cedar
Base note: Musk, Patchouli, Sandalwood

He – Gentle, delicate and powdery, with hint of woody molecules. It is more skiscent than real perfume on me, no big emotions here.

She – It’s in the woody family of fragrances yet for me it’s not woody at all. The so-called woody accord is very artificial. What stands out is cyclamen, similar to heliotrope but stripped of subtlety. There’s a hint of something fresh, supposedly salty in the background which makes overall impression even worse – the scent is depressive and cloying. Such a shame for such a name…

ATITLAN

Enter the earth, enter under the earth. Imagine these ramifications of forces, these encounters of smells, this unprecedented fermentation of phenomena. Alluviums, crystallizations, vegetations, transformations that lead to the creation of the most diverse realities from the diamond to the hummingbird, from the blue lily of the Persian springs, through the rocks of pure sulfur of Iceland and up to at the edge of the world, on the flank of volcano Atitlàn.

Top note: Ylang Ylang
Heart: Mimosa, Patcholi, Amber
Base note: Musk, Vanille Bourbon, White Wood, Salicyl

He- Lot of mimosa sweetened by vanilla – this might be the full summary. Where is the volcano’s heat? Instead it smells Springy and floral. Simple, elegant minimalism.

She – Sweeter than it should be. Vanilla, amber and mimosa are great by themselves, but together they just seem too much of a good thing. Although there are times when the mimosa gets pleasantly dry and yellow, charming.

DIVIN PART

Why everything rather than nothing? Close your eyes and go back in time. In this inconceivable immensity, all that is not impossible finally happens, and in an unheard-of flash, matter was. A fundamental, luminescent particle, made of azure, vermeil and gold, springs forth. Imagine its beauty, its irresistible power of attraction. It attracts all those floating in the great quantum vacuum. She binds them together, in a tiny fraction of a second, then faints. It was the Boson of higgs, the particle of God. The right answer to the wrong questions. Life is not a miracle.

Top note: Ylang Ylang from Madagascar
Heart: Iris butter
Base note: White Musks

He I do not recall smelling combination of ylang ylang and iris before – it is like meeting of sun and earth. The iris here is presented in really striking way. Surprising, well-blended scent.

She – I would expect something of much more substance for such a name. What i have instead is quite a surprising mixture of lash ylang with soft and cool iris – I would never expect these to go well together, but here it is: infinite elegance.

KALAHARI

Imagine the desert. Imagine its immensity, its softness and its hardness. The desert, metaphor of loneliness is however populated. Populated with secrets, which define the enigmatic being that it is, and not the simple space exposed to the eye. The language of the desert is wild, pure and intact. Listen to it, feel it, it defies, advances, steals away, and leaves us stunned, bewitched, on the verge of an unintelligible happiness.

Top note: Saffron, Cardamom
Heart: Ambrette, Labdanum, Cedar
Base note: Incense, Cachemeran, Musk

He – This is really interesting one, smells much stronger, luxurious, cocooning. There is “expensive soap” element here, but I do not mind it at all. Dry spices and incense complete the picture.

She – Well, that’s more like it. Spicy and dry, it reminds me of some older perfumes written by Olivia Giacobetti. The air is clean and trembling, something fascinating lurks at the edge of vision. Still the perfume offers comfort, the feeling of being safe and secure, and very close to one sacred self.

NAICA

Emerged from the chaos, a forest of silver pillars slumbers in the hollow of a crystal cave. In a black field dazzled with darkness, she patiently inscribed herself in the infinite mysterious algebras.

Top note: Clove, Grapefruit, Pink Bay
Heart: Lavender, Geranium, Cedarr
Base note: Oak Moss, Patchouli, Benzoin

He- Strong, elegant and quite masculine. Lot of pepper, geranium and lavander, modern take on many classics. Concluding – I have found three favourites in this line: Naica, Divin Part and Kalahari, other two did not move me being too floating and gentle.

She – crisp and cool, occasionally boiling like a hot volcanic tub buried deep underground, in a glittering cave. Its vapour flies high, caressing the fir tops and the stars themselves. It  almost burns on the skin. Still, that perfect lavender will make it perfect for long, morbid summers to come.

Noème Paris creations are available as Eaux de Parfum 100ml, 170 EUR from such prestigious stores as Harrods, Perfumeria Quality, Sens Unique, 1907 Perfumeries, Smell Stories and other authorized stockists.

Quotes and pictures via brand. Samples – special thank you to Perfumeria Quality. Opinions – our own.