Seventh edition of weekly column: “He says, she says”! He: Jakub and She: Aleksandra of Persefume — two people, two genders, two opinions, both valuable, both sincere. Sometimes similar, sometimes contrasting — we test without checking each other’s impressions. Choose what fits you better. Write your own part in comments.

This time we cover four scents from Collection d’Ailleurs by French niche company EVODY Parfums founded by mother/daughter duo Régine Droin (left on the picture) and Cérine Vasseur (right). Two ladies full of passion, energy great smile and truly French charm.

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Collection d’Ailleurs is the second line of EVODY Parfums (name of the brand actually comes from evodia, the “tree of a hundred thousand flowers”), after eight scents of the Collection Premiere.
Since Spring 2015 the quartet is available in new design – all scents became repackaged into brown bottles with wooden caps available in both 50ml and 100ml formats.

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This collection is a tribute to evasion, to nature’s richness and to the diversity of cultures.Through these new fragrances Régine and Cérine are going to offer their interpretation of far away places. Olfactory visions that link two passions for both of them: travelling and of course perfume …

Ombre Fumée (2014)

Notes: Cardamom, lemon, jasmin, pepper, iris, cypress, vetiver, tonka bean, ambregris, suede, Atlas cedar
Nose: Barbara Zoebelein (DROM)

He — Cardamom note always makes me happy, so no wonder that I adore Ombre Fumée’s opening. However, after aromatic, bold start spices disappear leading to mostly vetiver-centred, woody aroma. Soon the scent becomes quiet, musky and rather linear. Pity, would love to keep head notes forever.

She — Dry, woody and slightly smoky, also salty thanks to a large dollop of vetiver. First it thrills my nostrils with black pepper, than it becomes creamier. It’s dangerously close to a generic niche scent, therefore – not to be remembered.

D’Âme de Pique (2014)

Notes: Bergamot, pear accord, blackcurrant leaf, absolute and essence of rose, raspberry, saffron, cashemere wood, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla
Nose: Philippe Romano (DROM)

He — the name suggests majestic and royal scent, but we receive very bright and fruity composition. Frivole, innocent and playful, full of red berries and other forest fruits accompanied by delicate rose. Feminine, very wearable and quite long lasting, it reminded me a lot of some scents for Jo Malone (e.g. Blackberry & Bay), or the recent The Different Company Une Nuit Magnetique. Made me smile, though it is not my real type.

She — a fruity cocktail with rose, too sweet to my taste. A bunch of fresh notes makes the perception nicer, still it doesn’t make it easier to wear on skin. Wasps like it a lot.

Noir d’Orient (2014)

Notes: Incense, bay leaf, amber, patchouli, cinnamon, cloves, sandalwood, tonka, amber-rhum accord.
Nose: Corinne Cachen (DROM)

He — Name is bit misleading – it is not the typical Oriental scent, but marvellous rich and spicy combination. We have very realistic cinnamon, cloves, rhum, sweet carmelized apples and hint of patchouli. It reminds me mixture of old, good style Serge Lutens’s creations with Hermes Hermessence Ambre Narguile. I just loved this scent and been wearing it with pure pleasure. Bold and long-lasting, truly recommended.

She — I would imagine Eastern Black as something much more dry and gloomy than this spicy and rhum perfume. There are moments when it cracks with dry wood but it always remains quite soft (tonka bean effect) and even bright at times, as if dark, velvet cloth was caressed by setting sunbeams. There is plenty of stability, silence and peace. The scent is undoubtedly nice, it smells preciously, intricately and decoratively.

Blanc de Sienne (2015)

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Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, basil, fig, cypress, orange blossom, iris, woods, resins, coffee
Noses: Ann-Sophie Behaghel and Amélie Bourgeois (Flair Paris)

He — Sienna is definitely mesmarizng and impressive city, so no wonder it became inspiration for creating the latest Evody’s perfume. Blanc de Sienne is intriguing and I needed some patience to understand its beauty. For me it truly evokes the Sienna’s atmosphere with its powdery aura, wet walls of buildings and dusty aromas. Contrasting notes of citrus fruits, coffee, caramel, benzoin and dried figs, for sure a lot is happening in this fragrance!
Flair’s perfumer Ann-Sophie Behaghel created base notes while Amélie Bourgeois was responsible for the heart of fragrance where she put her beloved note: iris which actually dominates the whole composition.
I quite recognize style of those two talented noses: in Blanc de Sienne I can recall distant echoes of their Mendittorosa Odori d’Anima Omega and the recent Room 1015 Electric Wood, all sharing that powdery and comforting iris note. Blanc de Sienne is interesting, but quite polarizing.

She — this is Sienna theme treated stereotypically – it must contain Iris pallida, right? It’s quite juicy here, and with a fruity note. There’s something about coffee in the notes; what I feel is an unpleasant, rubbery facet of Tolu balsam, plus some strange, jasmin-animalic nuances . I find this attempt to make powder sensual rather unsuccessful.

During Pitti Fragranze 2015 Evody Parfums will present repackaged Collection Premiere (we will cover this line on the later stage) and some other suprises – stay tuned to read about them on Persefume!

Pictures: brands’ press materials. Samples received from Evody. Thank you!

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Jakub (left) and Aleksandra (right)—photo edit by Jakub Grabarczyk Photo+Retouch
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