The 15th edition of our “He says, she says” column. He: Jakub and She: Aleksandra of Persefume — two people, two genders, two opinions, both valuable, both sincere. Sometimes similar, sometimes contrasting — we test without checking each other’s impressions. Choose what fits you better. Write your own part in comments.
In this post we do focus on Atelier des Ors – French niche label voted by us as the best 2015 brand debut.
Jakub: Atelier des Ors house was founded in 2015 by Jean-Philippe Clermont who translates his vision of fragrances with support of Firmenich perfumer Marie Salamange. Image of the brand is really well-thought: noble ingredients, classic themes referring to traditions of Haute Parfumerie, elegant, Oriental scents in equally refined, golden-themed packaging. Scents are housed in bottles evoking sunrays and there are flakes of real 24k gold floating in the liquid. Actually, I personally rather dislike all those glitters, glimmers and bling-bling crystals, but in the case of Atelier des Ors it does not look pretentious at all, really fitting theme of such elegant creations. Had pleasure to meet Mr Clermont at recent Esxence which made me admire the brand even more – creator has clear vision of his project and presents it in very charming and professional manner.
Let us go straight to all five scents there – with little preview of the upcoming one:
Notes: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Blackcurrant, Sage, Violet, Iris, Patchouli, Vetiver from Haiti, Praline
He – Lovely patchouli layered with contrasting notes of fruits, especially grapefruit and juicy, sour and realistic blackcurrant. Dusty iris plays vital role at the start of composition while during the time the overall effect becomes drier, woodier, with prominent, a little bit masculine vetiver note. Auber Rubis is patchouli far from dark territories, truly elegant and easy to wear.
She – Starts with a beautiful and vibrating mixture of patchouli and grapefruit, settling on patchouli side quickly. The accord remains fresh, earthy and quite sweet. The good thing is that after so many years of testing patchouli perfumes, they can still occasionally satisfy me. This one surprises with its fruity, yet warm vibe. Very comforting.
Notes: Juniper berries, Cardamom, Cypress, Incense, Saffron, Cedarwood leaf, Vetiver, Cypriol, Leather
He – This one feels even more masculine and aromatic, it is more about game of vetiver and spices including my favourite cardamom and juniper berries than leather itself. Feels bright, truly refined – like gentleman in made to measure suit. I have been wearing it with pleasure – you can literally feel the exquisite quality of the juice.
She – A burst of menthol cardamom is not what I expect of a leather perfume. Yet, it makes perfect sense when the rest of the composition is revealed: the suede so soft as if it was greased with butter. The fresh, pine odour corresponds beautifully with other trees to be found here: sombre cypress and bright cedre. The vetiver is quite unusual in Cuir Sacre: neither green nor pale, it rather stays on the chocolate side of the Force.The general feeling is cosy yet sexy, wit a sharp look. A big scent for even bigger personalities.
LARMES DU DESERT
Notes: Elemi, Incense, Cypress, Patchouli, Gaiac wood, Cedar wood, Citrus, Benzoin, Wolfwood
He – Oh, it is Norna Kamali Legere (although it reminded me of Donna Karan Essence: Labdanum as well). Same labdanum and spices combo layered with subtle incense. Norna was a beast, while Larmes du Desert is rather linear and close to skin. Feels like kiss of desert sun leaving resinous trace.
She – Initially it evokes my beloved Incense by Norma Kamali. The whiff of gorgeous labdanum opens up spaces and memories. Then other resins come along, making the concoction grow and swirl in multiple directions. The graveness of myrrh, the sweetness of guaiac, the ashes of incense.
Notes: Cinnamon, Cardamon, Pink pepper, Cypriol, Cedarwood, Cachalox, Styrax Essence, Wolfwood, Vanilla Tahitensis Absolute, Peru Balsam, Musk
He – What a gourmand! Luxurious, spicy, musky and ambery vanilla. Shy at the beginning, it quickly becomes sensual and sexual – almost like innocent date which after dawn suprises you with the wild, magnetic and erotic side. Stays on skin on hours – and I love it.
She – Simply delicious vanilla infused with hot spices, mixed with slightly chemical, buzzing styrax note. The inspiration is the Moon, I personally find this scent opposite to it – neither cold nor pale. Dark, rich and luminous. Perfect winter warmer.
Notes: Pink pepper, Rose buds, Raspberry, Patchouli, Gaiac wood, Brown sugar accord, Sandalwood, Agarwood accord, Amber
He – Yes, I adore Lune Feline, but this rose is another winner in this overally great line. Carnal, dusky rose with Arabic, oudy vibes and touch of sugar, like in case of candied fuits. I can admit that it is one of my favourites roses ever.
She – a rich rose with a sound raspberry note which makes it all very red and ferocious. When I smell it I do not see a rose, just a splash of red energy, quite abstract in shape and feeling. It has a pronounced sweet woods feeling to it, which makes it easy to overdose.
We had also chance to sample preview of the 6th, upcoming composition based on iris and musk (although the final name will be revealed soon) – for me it was sweet and spicy musk with touch of beautiful iris and for Aleksandra a very sweet variety of iris, probably not-existent in the universe. Smells wet only for a few seconds, than quickly turns into a very warm and nice scent infused with vanilla and cinnamon.
It was real pleasure to test such a solid line of classic, well-crafted and elegant scents. We are waiting for next Atelier des Ors projects to come!
Atelier des Ors scents are available as Eau de Parfum 100ml, RPP 225 EUR (also sold in exclusive coffret of all five creations, RPP 1095 EUR).
Pictures, notes and samples via Atelier des Ors, special thank you to Jean-Philippe Clermont for preview of the new launch.
Jakub (left) and Aleksandra (right)—photo edit by Jakub Grabarczyk. All rights reserved.