The 22nd edition of our top “He says, she says” column. He: Jakub and She: Aleksandra of Persefume — two people, two genders, two opinions, both valuable, both sincere. Sometimes similar, sometimes contrasting — we test without checking each other’s impressions. Choose what fits you better. Write your own part in comments.

In this edition we do focus on Art de Parfum – dynamically growing London-based fragrance house established in Spring last year by Lithuanian-born Ruta Degutyte whom we had pleasure to meet at brand’s Esxence 2017 stand.
Ruta
Ruta Degutyte- Art de Parfum Founder

All five Art de Parfum‘s creations are offered in Extraits de Parfum form and put strong emphasis on green ethics and sustainability: no colourants, no nano materials, fully biodegradable packaging and of course – no animal testing. The collection has been inspired by French culture and sophistication.

adp mix

Art de Parfum is guided by a French aesthetic and more specifically, the aesthetic of the relaxed, sexually provocative style down on the Riviera. To me, the South of France is probably the most liberating place in the world. It breathes sensuality, love, passion, boldness, a particularly refined sense of taste, a relaxed manner – all things that trigger my creativity”. – Ruta Degutyte

So let us now test Art de Parfum fragrances:

GIN AND TONIC COLOGNE

gin and tonic
Top: juniper berry, grapefruit, lemon zest, cucumber peel
Heart: gin tonic accord
Base: ambergris note, cedarwood, vetiver, white musk, cardamom oil, juniper berry oil, incense

An ice-cool gin tonic accord, brought alive with grapefruit peel, sweet resinous juniper and a slice of fresh-cut cucumber.

He- For me probably the best gin-themed perfume on the market beating e.g. Juniper Sling. It fully delivers promise of its name: the most realistic, effervescent, sparkling and zesty gin and tonic effect with lovely, crisp citrus notes, juniper berries and gentle marine breeze. Luckily for me, cucumber accord is very subtle – I prefer my G&T just with lime and of course, on the rocks! First hours are truly great, though the finish is more quiet with delicate incense/woody notes. Don’t be fooled by “Cologne” part – it is pure Extrait as in case of all AdP’s creations. Sexy work and as far I know, it sells trully well.

She – probably the best perfume ever inspired by an alcoholic drink. It’s fresh and zesty, and remains such for a long time, having this positive, fizzling vibe that makes you sweat less when it’s hot (or not being very much concerned, which is even better, no?). Relax on the rock, yes please, and one for my partner, too.

EXCENTRIQUE-MOI

excentrique-moi
Top: pepper, clove buds, red fruits
Heart: guaiac wood, hibiscus, black tea
Base: patchouli oil, white musk, cedar, artemisia (wormwood)

Rich red fruits blended with flowers and dry, tannic tea notes complement the dark woody base of patchouli and guaiac wood, ushering in sensuality and depth.

He - Very mature and original perfume which could easily fit into e.g. Serge Lutens line-up. It feels complex – fruits, red wine accord, pepper, prominent black tea accord and hint of patchouli give the composition deep, resinous and spicy feel. Special scent for special people, or equally special days – it is warm and festive.

She – Gin and Tonic Cologne being so good, is still not my favourite juice in the line. The crown goes to Excentrique Moi, belonging to one of my most loved fragrance families – a warm buzz I first encountered in Let Me Play the Lion by Les Nez. It’s woody, plummy and not at all clove-y on me, which is a bliss as I wouldn’t stand something more sweet than that, and it feels like an energetic fuel for the soul.

SEA FOAM

sea foam
Top: bergamot, marine notes, laurel
Heart: guaiac wood, seaweed absolute, fig leaf
Base: Haitian vetiver, driftwood accord, ambroxan, sea salt, sandalwood, patchouli incense

Iodic notes of seaweed and salt conjure up a purifying seascape. Drift away on a wave of a lactonic sandalwood, fig leaf and weathered woods.

He - I am usually running quite fast from sea-themed scents (and knowing Aleksandra’s taste can already predict she will write the same). Luckily, Sea Foam is the one I could possibly wear. It has this airy, salty feel with seaweed, touch of herbs and woods. It transforms into fig/vetiver combo, but the realistc marine aura is never truly lost.

She - Aquatic perfumes has never been high on my list – except for few honourable exceptions – so I won’t tell much about Sea Foam, which belongs to, well, aquatic-salty genre based on calonish notes I rather detest. It smells like toothpaste washed down by ocean water, and a hint of fig and patchouli doesn’t save the day. I can’t figure out conditions this would work out for me.

SIGNATURE WILD

signature wild
Top: cinnamon, davana, cardamon
Heart: orange blossom, dried fruits, radiant woods
Base: labdanum (cistus), leather, sandalwood, Peru balsam, Haitian vetiver

Unapologetically dark and wild. This highly addictive fragrance combines a powerful leather accord with the boozy and syrupy davana herb and sweet delicacy of orange blossom.

He - Signature Wild is marketed as dark, yet it fact it is not that nocturnal. There is lot going in this oriental leather fragrance! For me it is perfume of contradictions – leather note here is indeed balanced with sweetness of davana and powdery facets of orange blossom. There is also some interesting rubbery note (Bulgari Black fans – check it out!). Powerful and perfectly unisex statement. Got my full bottle some time ago and love it.

She - When I first looked up the notes they seemed rather promising. Orange blossom, cardamom, cistus – lots of things I like the best! And it works quite well on my skin, though I prefer leather to be more dominant and dirty. This one is perfectly matched with vibrant, tropical flower note, but overall it turns rather blunt on me, which is a shame – I would love it to show its teeth and bite me! Unfortunately this is the way peru balsam usually changes scents on my skin – they become nauseating. Unlucky me. ;-)

SENSUAL OUD

SENSUAL OUD
Top: clove, geranium leaf, date
Heart: saffron, rose, suede
Base: patchouli, oud, cypriol, jasmin absolute, clove

Seduction of the highest order. Blending dark woody notes such as our cypriol and patchouli with warm spices, rosy geranium leaf and velvety suede for a sexy and sophisticated scent that will take your breath away.

He - Yes, another oud and rose combo – but this time served in such exquisite, luxurious way! It leaves so bold, long-lasting statement with cypriol, woods, spices, velvery red rose and lovely, smooth oud accord (it is perfect illusion of oud as according to Art de Parfum’s philosophy, this rare material should be preserved). Absolute must-smell for lovers of the genre.

She - The name tells the truth, it’s wet with cypriol sap darkened by woody notes and abstract rose – like a single, dark red petal caught on a night wind. Perhaps a little bit too much on a sweet side of the force in the middle of scent’s evolution, Sensual Oud brings one much of what one could expect from an western oud scent. The wood is neither too animalic, nor to smooth. I wish cypriol note lasted longer, it is such an unexpected stream of delicious sensation it the head of this perfume…

Art de Parfum creations are available as Extraits de Parfum 50ml (114£) via company’s e-store (where sampling options are also available) and authorised stockists in UK, USA, Germany, Spain and UAE.

GIVEAWAY TIME!

adp set

Courtresy of Art de Parfum, we have worldwide giveaway of Art de Parfum Discovery Set consisting of five luxurious 2ml spray samples of pure Extraits de Parfum. Just comment which scent from the range appeals to you the most (comments are moderated and will appear after our approval). Do not forget to follow both Persefume and Art de Parfum Facebook fanpages. Deadline until 1 September 2017 – we will announce the winner (chosen via random.org) day later under this post. Best luck!

Pictures and quotes – Art de Parfums, opinions – our own.

heshe
Jakub (left) and Aleksandra (right)—photo edit by Jakub Grabarczyk Photography. All rights reserved.