In March 2016 German niche label J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin run by Lutz Herrmann and Tamas Tagscherer, as always supported by talented perfumer Véronique Nyberg of MANE will unveil its new project: Altruist created in the strict collaboration with acclaimed Berlin artist Paul DeFlorian.
Altruist which marks the first brand’s annual Art Edition was already previewed during Pitti Fragranze 13, along with Fetisch, yet we had to wait several months until its official launch. J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin‘s aim is to promote Berlin art and give the artist a maximum influence in all aspects of Art Edition perfume projects, including not only the concept, name and the look but also the composition of the scent itself.
The Art Edition 2016 entitled Altruist is the result of work with award-winning Paul DeFlorian who studied art in such renowned institutions as e.g. Akademie der Bildenden Künste Wien in Vienna, AustriaMimar Sinan, University of fine arts in Istanbul, or Austrian Graphic Design College.
Paul DeFlorian imagines his project as:
Altruist: a scent for feminists, cyborgs and survivors
set yourself on fire – throw everything into the flames
a swan song by Jacques Lacan, Miley Cyrus and your tinnitus
about desire, lust and nothingness
to create a place: it is nowhere and it will last forever.
smell what I feel: eccentric – blissful – distant & cheerful
a copy without an origin;
the essence of emptiness // the delights of flesh and literature
smells like: fresh paper & ink; young men in the shower/locker room: soap, fresh
sweat and deodorant;
also: grey rainbows, transparent concrete & imaginary flowers
A smell of a new fragrance is like the smell of a new lover.
In terms of packaging curated by Paul DeFlorian and executed by Lutz Herrmann Design, Paul selected one of his paintings to illustrate the concept, which is hidden inside the box, printed on a bag which holds the bottle. For the outer carton Paul chose a rough simple drawing board.The bottle is pure, industrial, square and minimal finishing off in a simpleutilitarian cap. The big volume of 200 ml adds a lavish & generous feel to the whole proposition of „Altruist“. The bottle itself is wrapped in a craft paper bag which carries the image titled: „My Mobile Is On Vibrate But He Never Calls Me Back“ bringing into live Paul’s color universe: bright greens, oranges and skin colors celebrate the beauty of youth. An unfinished face unfolds. Eyes and nose have to be imagined by the beholder.
My Mobile Is On Vibrate But He Never Calls Me Back – Paul DeFlorian
Until now the company used its large archives to create modern interpretations of J.F. Schwarzlose classics. This time, Altruist was created as result of the close work between Paul DeFlorian and the nose Véronique Nyberg . After several meetings and fragrance evaluations Altruist was born.
Véronique Nyberg and Paul DeFlorian
To underline the freshness of Paul’s colour scheme, especially the green-turquoise brushstrokes, Véronique included light and sparkling citrus such as Lemon and Bergamot essences. Véronique and Paul were looking for a clean and cold facet that they translated with AqualTM, an aldehydic MANE captive, and with Ginger Pure Jungle EssenceTM. To represent the touches of orange, she used warm and fusing spices such as Nutmeg essence and Black Pepper Pure Jungle EssenceTM, an exclusive MANE extraction technology.
An imaginary floral facet was added, with the association of the naturality of Rose Superessence with the sensuality of Orange blossom absolute, two everlasting scents, always reinterpreted in perfumery, anchored in our unconscious. In the base, the blend of woods and AmbramoneTM created a dense, both dry and humid scent that reminds of fresh paper delicately soaked in ink.
Lutz Herrmann and Tamas Tagscherer, J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin
I have briefly tried Altruist during Pitti Fragranze and now had also chance to talk to Paul DeFlorian and Lutz Herrmann about the concept of Altruist, exclusively for Persefume:
Jakub: Hello again, Paul and Lutz. Congratulations! Paul, I remember you haven’t really used perfumes before Altruist?
Paul: Oh, I didn’t really like them. In this project I loved the idea to work in new, completely unknown territory. I am very interested in the whole concept of smell/scent – a total ephemereal experence which you just can have in the moment.
Jakub: And your connection with J.F. Schwarzlose – how did it started?
Paul: Lutz Herrmann got interested in my paintings and .F. Schwarzlose already had two illustrators collaborations for their classic scents. This was time to push it forward and create completely new fragrance, without roots in the past.
Lutz Indeed, I saw Paul’s art first time online and was amazed how beautiful it was. So had to meet him and understand more about his work. This lead naturally to the question whether he would imagine a fragrance for Schwarzlose. It is real innovation for both J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin and the world of fragrance as all elements of fragrance development and marketing were comissioned by Paul himself. There have been fragrance projects by artists in the past, but there never has been the direct translation of an artist‘s imagination into a fragrance.
Jakub: Why 200ml, to spray it freely? Is it lighter than other ones? I remember trying and loving it during Pitti Fragranze, but need to re-fresh my memory soon.
Paul: It is truly fresh, but stays and has a heavy body. I wanted the concept of being an altruist also reflected in the size of the bottle: you can put it very generously on yourself or your beloved ones.
Jakub: Fetisch was perfume of 2015, Altruist – of 2016 – so will you focus on it during Esxence in Milano, can we expect you there as well?
Paul: I am not sure yet. My career as an artist is still blooming, but i will do everything possible to support Schwarzlose and Altruist!
The Altruist, Paul DeFlorian J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin Art Edition will launch in March 2016, limited to a 1000 pieces as 200 ml Eau de Toilette- retail price ca. Euro 175,00.
Pictures and quotes via J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin – thank you for this preview and short interview for Persefume!